The northern cayes and atolls - The Rough Guide to Belize - page 93

The north: Bacalar Chico and the Maya sites
A visit to the remote and virtually pristine northern section of Ambergris Caye is a
highlight, both for the obvious attractions of the Bacalar Chico National Park and
Marine Reserve and for the chance to see a number of Maya sites along the coast.
Several companies offer trips up here (see p.100). On a day-trip from San Pedro you
can visit several areas of the reserve and take in a few Maya sites.
On standard trips with local companies, you'll travel by boat through the Boca del
Rio and up the west coast, stopping briefly to observe colonies of wading birds roosting
on small, uninhabited cayes, such as the bird sanctuary of Little Guana Caye . Several
species of heron and egret live in the area, and you might even spot the beautiful and
much rarer roseate spoonbill , though landing on the islands or disturbing the birds is
prohibited. To return to town you'll pass through Bacalar Chico , the channel partly dug
by the Maya about 1500 years ago to create a shorter trading route between their cities
in Chetumal Bay and the coast of Yucatán.
he Maya sites in the north are sometimes undergoing archeological investigation,
and therefore may not be accessible. About two thirds of the way up the west coast of
the caye, Santa Cruz is a large site with stone mounds, and was once used for the
shipment of trade goods in the Postclassic era. Further on is Chac Balam , which was an
ancient ceremonial and administrative centre, and has burial chamber remains.

3

Bacalar Chico National Park and Marine Reserve
Visitor centre generally open daily 8am-5pm, but also depends on visiting tours • Bz$10
Covering the entire northern tip of Ambergris Caye, Bacalar Chico National Park and
Marine Reserve is the largest protected area in the northern cayes. Its 42 square miles
extend from the reef, across the seagrass beds to the coastal mangroves and the
endangered caye littoral forest , and over to the salt marsh and lagoon behind. The park
and reserve are patrolled by rangers based at the headquarters and visitor centre at San
Juan , on the island's northwest coast, where you register and pay the park fee. Near the
ranger station, a 23ft-high observation tower allows views over undisturbed lagoon and
forest. Despite all the development to the south, there's a surprising amount of wildlife
here, including crocodiles, deer and, prowling around the thick forests, several of the
wild cats of Belize, including jaguars .

STEP BACK IN TIME AT MARCO GONZALEZ
Accessible via a rutted wooden boardwalk through tangled, mosquito-infested mangroves
and palms, the Marco Gonzalez Maya site (open daily during daylight hours; Bz$20;
W marcogonzalezmayasite.com) is a far cry (a very far cry) from your typical Maya tourist site.
But it offers the rare chance to see an archeological excavation in progress - and also the rare
chance to really feel like you're going off the beaten track in increasingly modernized
Ambergris Caye. Situated near Laguna de Boca Ciega, on the southern tip of the island, the site
dates back 2000 years, to the Preclassic period, and studies have shown that it was once an
important trade centre with close links to Lamanai (see p.74). Excavations began in 1984, by
Canadian archeologists David Pendergast and Elizabeth Graham, who named the site after
their young guide. In 2011, Marco Gonzalez became the first Maya Site National Park on
Ambergris Caye, and is now partly managed by the National Institute of Culture and History
(NICH). The site itself is still fairly primitive, as this is a working dig - but that's the great appeal.
You're discovering it as the archeologists are, and a visit here involves skirting dirt mounds and
walking gingerly through the jet-black dirt, which is dotted with the occasional Maya pottery
shard and even bits of obsidian or flint that were used by the Maya as cutting tools.
Undoubtedly, the best way to fully appreciate the site is by going on a guided tour (usually
included as part of the entry fee), which is regularly offered by longtime expert guide (and
chairman of the Marco Gonzalez board) Jan Brown ( T 226 2059, E [e-mail]),
who gives a fascinating overview of the site.