Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DIVING AND SNORKELLING AROUND AMBERGRIS CAYE
Belize's Barrier Reef features one of the most colourful ecosystems on earth and the best way
to explore it is by snorkelling and diving its crystal waters. Ambergris Caye is dotted with dive
and snorkel operators (see p.100), all of which offer trips of varying lengths, price points and
locations. Night diving and snorkelling are also offered. The reef directly in front of San
Pedro is a heavily used area, and you'll generally find it in better condition to the north,
towards Mexico Rocks , or south, towards Hol Chan . Large marine life found here can include
sharks (hammerhead, bull and tiger, as well as the common and harmless nurse shark), turtles,
spotted eagle rays and, if you're really lucky, manta rays and whale sharks. For the best diving in
Belize and high-voltage excitement in a relatively pristine environment, take a trip to one of
the atolls , such as the Turneffe Atoll (see p.114). Snorkel trips to Caye Caulker are also
popular, but travelling there on your own by water taxi and taking a local tour is generally
cheaper. There are also several independent sailing boat owners who will charter their craft for
the day, so you can snorkel on your own; ask at your hotel.
PRICES AND FEES
PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) diving certification starts at around
US$300. A more basic course (which doesn't lead to PADI certification) begins at US$150.
Otherwise, two-hour, single-tank dives in the reef near San Pedro start at US$50-65;
double-tank dives at US$75-100. For diving trips to the Blue Hole, expect to pay around
US$300; for the Turneffe Atoll, around US$250. Snorkel tours cost around US$30-50 for two to
four hours, depending on where you go and whether a beach barbecue is included.
3
(navigable for some distance in the dry season, much less during wet weather, though
bikes can usually pass) leads to the village of Tres Cocos and the northern resorts along
miles of gorgeous, mostly deserted beaches. Note that there has been a longtime plan
to pave the roads throughout the north, so ask around for a current update. The
northernmost region of the caye, accessible via organized day-trips, features the
spectacular Bacalar Chico National Park and Marine Reserve , as well as several Maya sites
(see p.97). Following Coconut Drive south from the city, San Pedro becomes San
Pablo , the semi-o cial name for this area of beach resorts (and houses for the often
Spanish-speaking workforce). The accommodation in the south ranges from party-
friendly beachfront lodges to elegant resorts on quiet stretches of beach, like the
award-winning Victoria House (see p.103).
The south: Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark-Ray Alley
Five miles south of San Pedro at the southern tip of the caye, Hol Chan Marine Reserve
takes its name from the Maya word for “little channel”, and it is indeed a break in the
reef that forms the focus of the reserve. Established in 1987 and the first of Belize's
marine reserves, its three zones preserve a comprehensive cross-section of the marine
environment, including coral reef , seagrass beds and mangroves . Approaching with a
boat tour, you'll be met by a warden who explains the rules and collects the entry fee
( W holchanbelize.org; Bz$20), which is sometimes included in the cost of your tour.
You can also pick up more information at the Hol Chan Marine Reserve Visitor Center
(see p.98) in the centre of San Pedro. You'll see plenty of marine life , including some
very large snappers, groupers and barracuda.
Included in most of the tours is another part of the reserve, Shark-Ray Alley , where
you can swim in shallow water with nurse sharks and enormous stingrays . Watching
these creatures glide effortlessly beneath you is an exhilarating experience and
swimming here poses almost no danger to snorkellers, as humans are not part o
f the fishes' normal diet. However, note that the area can get quite crowded and
there's also the possibility that a shark could accidentally bite a hand - as has
occasionally happened.
 
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