Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE TERENA
The
Serra de Maracaju
near Campo Grande provided sanctuary for local
Terena
during a
period of Paraguayan military occupation in the 1860s. Under their highly ambitious dictator,
Solano López, the Paraguayans invaded the southern Mato Grosso in 1864, a colonial
adventure that resulted in the death of over half the invasion force, mostly composed of
native (Paraguayan) Guaraní. This was one period in Brazilian history when whites and
indigenous tribes fought for the same cause, and it was in the magnificent Serra de
Maracaju hills that most of the guerrilla-style resistance took place.
The late nineteenth century saw an influx of Brazilian colonists into the Aquidauana and
Miranda valleys as the authorities attempted to “populate” the regions between Campo
Grande and Paraguay - the war with Paraguay had only made them aware of how fertile
these valleys were. Pushed off the best of the land and forced, in the main, to work for new,
white landowners, the Terena tribe remained vulnerable until the appearance of
Lieutenant
Rondon
(after whom the Amazonian state of Rondônia was named). Essentially an engineer,
he came across the Terena in 1903 after constructing a telegraph connection - poles, lines
and all - through virtually impassable swamps and jungle between Cuiabá and Corumbá.
With his help, the Terena managed to establish a legal claim to some of their traditional land.
Considered by FUNAI (the federal agency for indigenous affairs) to be one of the most
successfully “integrated” tribal groups in modern Brazil, the Terena have earned a reputation
for possessing the necessary drive and ability to compete successfully in the market system -
a double-edged compliment in that it could be used by the authorities to undermine their
rights to land as a tribal group. They live mostly between Aquidauana and Miranda, the actual
focus of their territory being the town and train station of
Taunay
- an interesting settlement
with mule-drawn taxi wagons and a peaceful atmosphere. You'll find Terena handicrafts on
sale in Campo Grande too.
7
rooms are also available an
d there'
s a pool, unfortunately
located next to the car park.
R$138
Pantanal Hotel
Av Barão do Rio Branco 609
T
67 3242
1608.
The owner of this very welcoming hotel speaks
English and can arrange Pantanal tours. The pool is
surrounded by trees and you'll likely be swimming and
sunbathing under the watchful eye of
reside
nt parrots. It
also has a pleasant barbecue area too.
R$180
Pousada Águas do Pantanal
Av Afonso Pena 367
T
67 3242 1242,
W
aguasdopantanal.com.br.
This well-
known hotel is full of local character and plants, both
indoors and outdoors. A lovely pool, excellent service and a
huge breakfast help set it apart from nearby competitors.
The on-site tour oper
ator off
ers personalized trips into the
Pantanal and Bonito.
R$180
The Refúgio Ecológico Caiman
Based 40km out of
town
T
67 3242 1450, reservations
T
11 3706 1800,
W
caiman.com.br.
One of the most luxurious of all
Pantanal
fazenda
-lodges, set in 530 square kilometres of
swampland. Private villas and lodges are tastefully
decorated and have access to pools, and r
ates are full
ll board.
Wildlife activities are well organized too.
R$2122
Corumbá and around
Far removed from mainstream Brazil, hard by the Bolivian border and 400km west
of Campo Grande, the city of
CORUMBÁ
provides a welcome stop after the long ride
from either Santa Cruz (in Bolivia) or Campo Grande. As an entrance to the Southern
Pantanal, Corumbá has the edge over Cuiabá in that it is already there, stuck in the
middle of a gigantic swamp, only 119m above sea level. Commanding a fine view
over the Rio Paraguai and across the swamp, the city is small (approaching 100,000
inhabitants), and is one of Brazil's most laidback places south of the Amazon, basking
in intense heat and overwhelming humidity. Even at the port nothing seems to disturb
the slow-moving pool games taking place in the bars. There's a very open-plan feel to
the city and the people of Corumbá seem to be equally at home sitting at tables by bars
and restaurants, or eating their dinners outside in front of their houses. In every street,
there's at least one television blaring away on the pavement, and it's not unusual to be
invited into someone's house for food, drinks or - at weekends - a party.
