Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Aquidauana and around
AQUIDAUANA
, 130km from Campo Grande, is a lazy-looking place and very hot, sitting
under the beating sun of the Piraputanga uplands. Since the demise of passenger trains
to Corumbá, it sweats somewhat uncomfortably some distance from the main BR-262
highway, and, though it still serves as one of several gateways into the Pantanal, it's
better known for fishing and walking, with some superb views across the swamp. These
days, most visitors see little more than the signpost at the crossroads where the highway
bypasses the town; if you stop by here, it'll most likely be to use the highway café or
toilet facilities at the junction. If you do go into town or stay over here, it's worth
enquiring about two nearby but seldom visited sites: the ruins of the
Cidade de Xaraés
,
founded by the Spanish in 1580 on the banks of the Rio Aquidauana; and the
Morro do
Desenho
, a series of prehistoric inscriptions on the riverbank and in the nearby hills.
The river running through the town boasts some pleasant sandy
beaches
, quite clean
and safe for swimming between May and October, and
fishing
championships are an
integral part of the annual São João August festival here.
The neighbouring town of
ANASTÁCIO
- half an hour's walk on the other side of the
river - has some nice beaches of its own, but it is best known for the large
jaú
fish (often
weighing over 75kg) that live in its river. Anastácio is the transport hub of the region.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
7
AQUIDAUANA AND AROUND
By bus
Several daily buses connect Campo Grande with
Aquidauana and Anastácio (2hr), and onwards to Corumbá
(7hr). Anastácio is the transport hub of the region, with
daily bus services to Bela Vista, Bonito, Miranda and Ponta
Porã. Many of the lodges in the Southern Pantanal (see
p.466) can be accessed from here via private transfer.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Cabana do Pescador
Fifty kilometres south of
Aquidauana just off the BR-419 road towards Bonito
T
67
3245 3697,
W
cabanadopescador.com.br.
Luxury fishing
lodge on the Rio Miranda, which is a possible base from which
to go fishing, horse riding or take a tour to the
Bonito c
aves
(see p.452). The fish-shaped pool is lit up at night.
R$360
O Casarão
Rua Manoel Antônio Paes de Barros 533,
T
67 3241 2219.
One of several decent restaurants in
town is the cosy
O Casarão
. This is an expensive spot that
serves delicious, though not exclusively Brazilian, dishes
and specializes in local fish.
Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm &
6.30-11pm, Sun 1-3pm.
Portal Pantaneiro
Rua Pandiá Calógeras, Aquidauana
1067
T
67 3241 4328,
W
portalpantaneiro.com.br.
Kitted out with local art, this light and airy hotel has a
lovely swimming pool and very comfortable rooms with
a/c,
fri
gobar
and TV. The pretty garden is lined with palm
trees.
R$135
Pousada Pequi
Rodovia Br 262 Km 48
T
67 3245 0949.
A comfortable lodge by the river with rustic decor, a
swimming pool and a restaurant serving hearty Brazilian
food. Horse, vehicle and boat expeditions are also available
and activities from he
re iinclu
de fishing for piranhas. Rates
quoted are full board.
R$650
Miranda
Seventy kilometres west of Anastácio, the small town of
MIRANDA
sits straddling the
BR-262 at the foot of the Serra da Bodoquena by the Rio Miranda. Once the scene of
historic battles, Miranda has been somewhat ignored by visitors since the demise of the
old Campo Grande to Corumbá rail service, but it's a pleasant town that is known for
excellent fishing and for producing Terena and Kadiwéu artefacts. It's also a good base
for visiting Bonito (128km) or the Southern Pantanal swamp (see p.466).
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
MIRANDA
By bus
There are nine daily buses from Campo Grande to Miranda (3hr).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Cantina del Amore
Rua Barrão do Rio Branco 515.
A
decent restaurant in town serving simple Brazilian rice and
bean dishes, as well as fresh fish.
Hotel Chalé
Rua Barão do Rio Branco 685
T
67 3242
1216.
A cheap option just up the road from the rodoviária
.
Clean rooms, some newer than others, all with a/c. Family
