The Amazon - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 358

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ALENQUER AND AROUND

5

By boat Slow boats leave Santarém for Alenquer (Mon-Fri
& Sun 9am, Sat noon; 6hr; R$25); fast boats leave from the
Hidroviária de Santarém on Av Tapajós daily at 10am & 4pm
(2hr 30min; R$33), returning to Santarém daily at 6.30am

and 4pm. From Alenquer there are also boats to Manaus
(Fri & Sat 10am; 2 days; R$100 including meals). Manaus to
Alenquer boats leave Tues & Wed at 11am (36hr).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Hotel Detinha Av Getúlio Vargas 562 T 93 3526 1005,
E [e-mail]. Alenquer's most comfor-
table hotel offers a/c rooms with private bathroom (cold
water only). There's not much difference between the old
rooms (R$80) and the new ones (R$100), except that the
latter are possibly a bit larger. There's wi-fi throughout
although it's often down - on the plus side you'll likely be
able to connect to the town's fr ee com munal wi-fi that
reaches some of the hotel rooms. R$100
Panificadora Fima Tv Doctor Arnaldo Morais 87 T 93
3526 2921. Passengers arriving at the port flock to this
little bakery the second the boats dock for their morning

cafezinho , which comes with bread and butter for just
R$1.50; if you're feeling more peckish you can have a
cafezinho with bread, cheese and ham for R$3.50. There's
also a selection of tasty pastries and even Middle Eastern
kibbeh (R$2). Mon-Sat 6am-8.30pm, Sun 6am-noon.
Pepita Hotel Rua Coaraci Nunes 713 T 93 9147 5362. Set
in a tiled black-and-yellow building with a touch of greenery
out the front, this pousada offers decent accommodation and
a friendly atmosphere; the rooms are a bit run-down and the
tattered sofas in the communal area could do with a make-
over, but the pretty building makes up for it. Ask fo r a “new”
room, in better shape than their predecessors. R$80

Vale do Paraíso
The best reason for visiting Alenquer is the stunning Vale do Paraíso , a forested valley
dotted with a series of beautiful waterfalls hidden deep within the jungle about 60km from
Alenquer. here are three main falls here: the first one you come across is the gorgeous
Paraíso , with water gently cascading down a series of stone steps into a glade in the forest
with a beautiful chestnut-coloured pool of cool water perfect for a dip. Below the falls you
can wade with care through shallow rapids, but watch your step on the sharp-edged rocks.
About 800m further along a forest path is Véu de Noiva with a fall of 20m; the deep
chocolate-coloured pool here is a fun spot to dive and jump in from the rocks, shaded
by dense jungle. Make sure you go with a guide ( Pousada Vale do Paraíso can arrange
for someone to take you) who will be able to tell you where the water is deepest. The
last is Preciosa , measuring 35m and the tallest of all. Its pool is not as appealing for a
swim as the other two, although it makes for a good spot to abseil (you can arrange this
through Pousada Vale do Paraíso ).
If you're up for something even more wild, get a guide to take you to Chuva de Prata ,
an 85m-high fall hidden deep within the jungle. It's a trek of about four hours, and if
you're feeling adventurous you can sling hammocks between two trees and sleep in the
depths of the forest (do not even dream of doing this without a guide). There are
networks of trails through the forest, and on weekdays you're likely to have the place
to yourself. It's the perfect spot to unwind in tranquillity for a few days.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE VALE DO PARAÍSO

By bus There are regular bus services from Alenquer
(Mon-Sat 9am, Sun 7am; 1hr 30min; R$6). From the
highway it's a 13.5km walk to Vale do Paraíso - call ahead

to Pousada Vale do Paraíso who can pick you up from the
junction (R$20 by motorbike; R$40 by car), or even fetch
you directly from Alenquer (R$200).

ACCOMMODATION
Pousada Vale do Paraíso Vale do Paraíso, PA254,
Ramal da Cachoeira T 93 3526 1284, W valedoparaiso
.tur.br. This pretty rustic pousada offers accommodation in
colourful A-framed and square huts set around the lovely
Paraíso waterfall; you can roll out of bed and head straight for
a refreshing dip in the coffee-coloured pool. The home-made
food is excellent and there's a laidback open-fronted

communal area with owner Zé Alfredo's eclectic collection of
knick-knacks along with hammocks to swing in (perfect for an
afternoon kip). The pousada organizes activities including
abseiling, trekking and nocturnal walks with night-vision
monocles to spot wildlife. It's an idyllic spot, and if you're
looking for somewhere properly Amazonian to h ang o ut for a
few days and do nothing very much, it's perfect. R$90