The Amazon - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 359

5

Cidade dos Deuses
Taxi from Alenquer R$200 return including waiting time; Pousada Vale do Paraíso can help organize this - you can visit the area by taxi on
the way to Vale do Paraíso
A spectacular spot near Alenquer not to be missed is Cidade dos Deuses , literally City of
the Gods, an awe-inspiring complex of rock formations lying deep in the jungle. You
can explore the area on foot - keep your eyes peeled for ancient rock paintings. Not
much is known about the formations nor the paintings, but it's widely believed the area
was used as a religious temple to worship the gods and possibly even for ritual purposes.

Monte Alegre and around
Most of the town of MONTE ALEGRE , 111km east of Santarém, is built along the brow
of a steep hill with spectacular views out across marshes and freshwater lakes, with the
Amazon to the south and jagged hills to the north and west the only pieces of high
ground between Belém and Manaus. With its obvious strategic advantages, this was
one of the first places on the Amazon to be colonized by Europeans; a small group of
English and Irish adventurers settled here in the 1570s, almost fifty years before Belém
was founded. The Portuguese soon expelled them, and Monte Alegre was a ranching
and farming settlement, then a centre of the rubber trade.
However, there is a much longer history of human settlement in the region. At
various points the hills behind the town are covered in spectacular indigenous rock
paintings - one of the main reasons for visiting - that range from abstract geometric
patterns through to stylized representations of animals and human stick figures and the
most compelling images of all: palm prints of the ancient painters themselves.

Monte Alegre Rock Paintings
Guides: Nelsi Sadeck, Rua do Jaquara 320 ( T 93 3533 1430, T 93 9653 4785, E [e-mail]), is the most knowledgeable
(R$450, up to six people); Carlos Augusto De Sousa Nemer ( T 93 9131 7707 or T 93 3533 1632) works out cheaper (R$300), although he
isn't able to provide visitors with information on the paintings
The rock paintings have been dated at 13,150 years old, making Monte Alegre one of
the most important archeological sites in South America. Some of the paintings are on
rockfaces large enough to be seen from the road, but others are hidden away, requiring
a steep climb to see them, so wear good shoes. Also, whatever time of year you go, it is
likely to get very hot during the day: take plenty of water, a hat, mosquito repellent and
sunscreen. There are six main sites where you can view the paintings - most with
incredible views over the surrounding area.
You will only be able to visit the paintings by four-wheel-drive transport and you will
need a guide.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE MONTE ALEGRE AND AROUND

By boat Slow boats leave Santarém daily at 2pm (8hr; R$30)
returning daily at 8pm; fast boats leave from the Hidroviária de
Santarém on Av Tapajós daily at 4pm (2hr 30min; R$43),
returning to Santarém daily at 5.45am. From Monte Alegre

there are departures to Manaus (Tues & Thurs 8pm, Fri & Sun in
the evenings - times vary; 3 days; R$130), Macapá (daily at
midnight; 24hr; R$120) and Belém (Fri & Sun, with one added
service on Mon every 15 days - times vary; 2 days; R$130).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Dona Marita Av Aviador Pinto Martins 607 T 93 9139
3355. This welcoming restaurant with dangling
lampshades and seating set around a small leafy courtyard
offers plenty of local specialities, including filé de pirarucú
stuffed with cheese and fried banana (R$45). On Sundays
there's an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (R$20). Tues-Sat
11.30am-3pm & 4-11.30pm, Sun lunch only.
Hotel

T 93 3533 1700. This drab hotel midway between the
Cidade Alta and the Cidade Baixa offers a selection of simple
tired rooms with paper-thin doors. Staff at reception seem to
be away more often than not, but if you ha ng aro und for a bit
someone is bound to come and greet you. R$70
Hotel Shekinah T 93 3533 1489, W hotelshekinah
.com.br. This hotel is probably the best Monte Alegre has to
offer; the a/c rooms feature wooden furniture and are Shalon Tv Joaquim José Correa 467