The Northeast - The Rough Guide to Brazil - page 270

queue attests. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm.
La Douane Bistrot Paço de Alfândega 35, Bairro do
Recife T 81 3224 5799, W ladouane.com.br; map
p.266. Located in the wonderfully converted Alfândega
shopping mall, this plush restaurant is favoured by local
politicians and businessmen. Waiting staff are
immaculately turned out and the food is Mediterranean in
flavour with a Brazilian bent - splash out on the bacalhau
gratinado with garlic purée (R$110) or try the veggie pasta
with artichoke and palm heart (R$40). Mon-Fri
10am-10pm, Sat noon-10pm, Sun noon-5.30pm.
Leite Praça Joaquim Nabuco 147, Santo Antônio
T 81 3224 7977, W restauranteleite.com.br; map p.266.
Classy place serving tasty local and Portuguese dishes in a
very stylish nineteenth-century interior (lots of cod dishes,
beef tongue in madeira sauce and the like). The restaurant
was founded in 1882, but this building dates from around
1905. Sun-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm (closed Sat).
Parraxaxá Rua Igarassu 40, Casa Forte T 81 3268 4169,
W parraxaxa.com.br; map p.266. A little piece of the sertão
transplanted to the city, this celebrated por quilo place is
themed around the talismanic bandit Lampião, with cantina -
style tables and chairs, and a daily buffet bulging under the
weight of backcountry specialities such as paçoca , sun-dried
beef and all manner of deliciously stodgy puddings. Prices
are per 100g: R$4.29 on weekdays, R$4.49 at weekends. A
perfect lunch stop after the nearby Museu do Homem do
Nordeste (see p.269). Note that the branch in Boa Viagem
isn't as good. Mon-Sat 11.30am-10pm, Sun 7am-10pm.

Rio, Pina T 81 3463 8998, W bardafava.com.br; map
p.271. Renowned for its exquisitely prepared favas (broad
beans) that accompany virtually every meal, this is one of the
most consistently popular restaurants in Recife. Most dishes
are priced for 2-3 people, though they do an executivo
individual with charque and feijâo verde for R$20, and the
grilled cheese starter (R$10) is heavenly. Daily 11am-6pm.
★

Bargaço Av Antônio de Góes 62, Pina T 81 3465 1847,
W restaurantebargaco.com.br; map p.271. Sophisticated
seafront restaurant serving regional and Bahian seafood
dishes and especially tasty shrimp and lobster moqueca (most
dishes are designed for two). Potent caipirinhas . Sun-Thurs
noon-midnight, Fri & Sat noon-1am.
★

Chica Pitanga Rua Petrolina 19 T 81 3465 2224,
W chicapitanga.com.br; map p.271. Long one of the most
sought-after por quilo places in Recife, with a bright, stylish
interior and tables that you'll likely have to wait patiently to
snag (go early). At R$48 (R$66 at weekends), it isn't cheap
but you get what you pay for, with a dazzling buffet heavy
on seafood and always in flux. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm
& 6-10pm, Sat & Sun 11.30am-4pm & 6-10pm.
Entre Amigo Rua Marquês de Valença 50 T 81 3312
1000, W www.entreamigosobode.com.br; map p.271.
Famed for its braised goat, hence the nickname “O Bode”
(the goat) - the main event is served a bewildering number
of ways, from goat paella to goat in wine sauce with sweet
potato (mains to share R$60-85). Daily 11.30am-3am.
Recanto Lusitano Rua Antônio Vicente 284 T 81 3462
2161, W recantolusitano.com.br; map p.271. Serving
traditional Portuguese food since 1980; dishes range
R$70-100 but are good for two people to share. Tues-Sat
11.45am-3pm, 6.45pm-1.30am; Sun 11.45am-4pm.

4

BOA VIAGEM
Bar da Fava Rua Padre Oliveira Rolin 37A, Jardim Beira

DRINKING
Most of the city-centre bars are in the Bairro do Recife (Recife Antigo) with the scene at its noisiest in and around Praça do
Arsenal. The liveliest area in Boa Viagem is around Praça de Boa Viagem (quite a long way down the beach from the city
centre, near the junction of Av Boa Viagem and Rua Bavão de Souza Leão).

run by local photographer and artist Sergio Altenkirch,
decorated with his work. Join the alternative crowd to drink
cachaça and snack, and to enjoy live music (from jazz and
blues to rock). Mon-Sat noon-late, Sun 6.30pm-late.

CITY CENTRE
Arsenal do Chopp Praça Artur Oscar 59, Bairro do Recife
T 81 3224 6259; map p.266. Contrary to its name, the
“Beer Arsenal” actually operates as a popular lunch spot on
weekdays, reverting to raucous bar only on Sundays, during
Domingo na Rua. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, Sun 4-10pm.
Buraco do Sargento Pátio de São Pedro 33, Santo
Antônio T 81 3224 7522; map p.266. Classic old-school bar
and café on the plaza since 1955, housed in the headquarters
of the Batutas de São José (one of Recife's blocos de carnaval ).
Stand around the granite counter-top or sit on a table outside,
sipping Brahma or cachaça and snacking on galinha cozido
(chicken gizzards; R$15). Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm.
Casa da Moeda Rua da Moeda 150, Bairro do Recife
T 81 3224 7095, W casadamoedabar.com.br; map
p.266. For a taster of Recife's bohemian side visit the bar

BOA VIAGEM
Bar Boratcho Galeria Joana D'arc, Av Herculano
Bandeira 513, Pina T 81 3327 1168; map p.271. With its
name practically inviting a good drinking and dancing
session, this cool fairy-lit shack is one of the best places in
town to hear quality DJs. They also do Mexican food, should
you need something to soak up all the tequila. Tues-Thurs
7pm-1am, Fri & Sat 7pm-3am, Sun 7pm-midnight.
Boteco Maxime Av Boa Viagem 21 T 81 3465 1491;
map p.271. This beach bar is a Recife institution, with a
terrace overlooking the waterfront and a steady stream of