Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
RECIFE CARNAVAL
Carnaval in Recife is overshadowed by the one in Olinda, but the city affair is still worth sampling.
The best place for
Carnaval information
is the tourist o
ce, which publishes a free broadsheet
with timetables and route details of all the Carnaval groups (
blocos
). The most famous is the Galo
da Madrugada; the most common are the
frevo
groups (trucks called
freviocas
, with an electric
frevo
band aboard, circulate around the centre, whipping up already frantic crowds); but most
visually arresting are
caboclinhos
, who wear modern Brazilian interpretations of a traditional
Amazon Indian costume - feathers, animal-tooth necklaces - and carry bows and arrows, which
they use to beat out the rhythm as they dance. It's also worth trying to see a
maracatu
group,
unique to Pernambuco: they're mainly Afro-Brazilian, and wear bright costumes, the music an
interesting (and danceable) hybrid of African percussion and Latin brass.
In Recife, the
main events
are concentrated in Santo Antônio and Boa Vista. Carnaval
o
cially begins with a trumpet fanfare welcoming Rei
Momo, the Carnaval king and queen,
on Avenida Guararapes at midnight on Friday, the cue for wild celebrations. At night, activities
centre on the grandstands on Avenida Dantas Barreto, where the
blocos
parade under the
critical eyes of the judges; the other central area to head for is the Pátio de São Pedro. During
the day, the
blocos
follow a
route
of sorts: beginning in Praça Manuel Pinheiro, and then via
Rua do Hospício, Avenida Conde de Boa Vista, Avenida Guararapes, Praça da República and
Avenida Dantas Barreto, to Pátio de São Pedro. Good places to hang around are near churches,
especially Rosário dos Pretos, on Largo do Rosário, a special target for
maracatu
groups.
Daylight hours is the best time to see the
blocos
- when the crowds are smaller and there are
far more children around. At night, it's far more intense and the usual safety warnings apply.
4
Cosmopolitan Hostel
Rua Paulo Setúbal 53
T
81 3204
0321,
W
www.cosmopolitanhostel.com; map p.271.
Decent budget option, with basic en-suite doubles and
spotless dorms, stylish TV lounge (cable TV, DVDs an
d free
wi-fi), shared kitchen and breakfast included. Dorms
R$44
Estação do Mangue
Rua Raimundo Gomes Gondim 26
T
81 3049 2626,
W
estacaodomangue.com.br; map
p.271.
Justly popular hostel, a short walk from the beach,
with communal TV room and kitchen,
simple
dorms a
nd free
wi-fi. Buffet breakfast included. Dorms
R$50
; doubles
R$180
Golden Tulip Recife Palace
Av Boa Viagem 4070
T
81 3201 8200,
W
goldentuliprecifepalace.com; map
p.271.
Standard luxury high-rise, with superb beach views,
plush lobby and rooms
with al
l comforts and facilities,
including sauna and pool.
R$475
Hotel
T
81 3302 3333,
W
www.ponteshoteis.com.br/atlante
-plaza; map p.271.
Large, modern and well located in the
centre of the beach and nightlife, this luxurious hotel boasts
elevators with panoramic views, plus
a bar,
restaurant,
swimming pool, fitness suite and saunas.
R$350
MarHotel Recife
Rua Barão de Souza Leão 451
T
81
3302 4444,
W
www.ponteshoteis.com.br/mar-hotel;
map p.271.
One of the best mid-range options on the
beach, with good service and room
s with
balcony, a/c,
cable TV and ceramic floors. Free wi-fi.
R$270
Piratas da Praia
Av Cons Aguiar 2034 (3rd floor), at Rua
Prf. Osias Ribeiro
T
81 3326 1281,
W
piratasdapraia.com;
map p.271.
Neat pastel dorms with primary-coloured
portraiture and a choice of fan or a/c. Lockers available,
discount for HI members, and wi-fi. Also
some
rooms a
nd small
l
apartments. Breakfast included. Dorms
R$45
; doubles
R$145
Atlante
Plaza
Av
Boa
Viagem
5426
EATING
Recifense cuisine
revolves around
fish
and
shellfish
- try
carangueijo mole
, crabs cooked in a spicy sauce until shells and
legs are soft and edible, which solves the problem of digging out the meat; small crabs called
guaiamum
; and
agulhas fritas
(fried needle-fish). In Boa Viagem,
Alameda Rebelinho
is the main eating area (
W
www.alamedarebelinho
.com.br), while over in the Bairro do Recife,
Domingo na Rua
(Sun 2-10pm;
W
domingonaruanorecifeantigo.com.br) sees
Rua da Bom Jesus transformed into an open-air food and arts market.
snacks (
petiscos
) served from 3.30pm.
Daily 11.30am-1am.
★
CITY CENTRE
Bistrô e Boteco
Av Alfredo Lisboa (Armazém 11), Bairro
do Recife
T
81 3224 4992; map p.266.
Adjoining the
Centro de Artesanato (see p.274), with seating overlooking
the river and a vibrant wall mural by Project Lambe-Lambe,
this refined restaurant offers an excellent lunch buffet
(R$40) of local seafood and meat dishes, with drinks and
Brotfabrik
Rua da Moeda 87, Bairro do Recife
T
81 3424 2496,
W
brotfabrik.com.br; map p.266.
Bakery that almost pulls off the Dutch theme in a spacious
old warehouse with espresso (from R$3.10), pastries, rye
bread,
salgados
(R$2.50), sandwiches (R$8.90-10.50)
and bite-sized pizzas (
brotinho
; R$8.60), as the constant
