Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
4WD drive (daily noon-4pm; 1hr; R$75) followed by a
short boat ride (R$20) to Boipeba (
W
boipebatur.com.br),
or join a tour to the island (see p.235). Speedboats also run
to Boipeba direct from Valença (50min; R$180 for two).
Activities
It's possible to arrange outdoor activities
through your
pousada
, including canoeing in the mangrove
swamps, spotting wildlife in the coastal woodlands and
horse riding on the beach, as well as surfing and diving.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Casa Bobô
Vila Monte Alegre, Moreré
T
75 9930 5757,
W
pousadacasabobo.com.
Managed by the indefatigable
(English-speaking) Myriam and Nilton, this is a justly
popular choice so book ahead; everything is spotless,
beautifully crafted and maintained, with three cosy rustic-
chic bungalows and healthy breakfasts, on a
hill just
a short
walk or tractor ride from the pier. Free wi-fi
.
R$220
Pousada Lua das Águas
Rua da Praia, Praia Boca da
Barra
T
75 3653 6015,
W
luardasaguas.com.br.
Ver y
attractive bungalows with hammock verandas and a palm-
thatched circular beach restaurant that serves some of the
best seafood south
of Fo
rtaleza. Free wi-fi throughout.
Daily 8am-10pm.
R$280
Pousada Santa Clara
Travessa Da Praia 5 (Praia Boca da
Barra)
T
75 3653 6085,
W
santaclaraboipeba.com.
Just a
short walk from town, this hotel offers luxurious, spacious
rooms but is best known for its good Bahian
cookin
g
(Tues-Sun 11am-10pm). Free wi-fi in public areas.
R$540
3
Barra Grande
Isolated out on the tip of the Península de Maraú,
BARRA GRANDE
is a blissfully
untouched village at the heart of vast tracts of sandy beaches and the pristine waters
of the Baía de Camamu. Things are changing, but for now the village retains a rustic
appeal hard to beat - there's little to do but lounge on the sands or hike along the
beaches. Most
pousadas
are located in Barra Grande village itself (where the ferries
come in), while
Taipús de Fora
is a 7km strip of palm-fringed beach (20min drive south
of Barra), facing an incredibly rich reef on the Atlantic side of the peninsula, with pools
forming at low tide (you can also stay here).
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND
BARRA GRANDE
By boat
Most people come by boat from Camamu; slow
ferries depart from the pier hourly (6am-5pm; 1hr
40min; R$8), while faster speedboats (R$40) can be
hired to make the trip in 40min. Camamu lies on BA-001,
325km south of Salvador and linked to it with regular
buses (5hr); buses also depart from here to Itacaré
(2 daily; 55min; R$8-9), Ilhéus (2 daily; 2hr 20min;
R$20) and Valença (3 daily; 2hr 25min; R$11-13).
By 4WD
Local 4WD transports shuttle between the
beaches when full (R$10).
By car
Getting here with your own wheels (preferably
4WD) is possible in dry weather, but the drive entails a 50km
ride of very poor, grinding dirt and sand tracks (BR-030).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
★
Pousada Arte Latina
Praia de Taipús de Fora
T
73 3258 6188,
W
pousadaartelatina.com.br.
Excellent
choice on the Atlantic side of the peninsula, this rustic-chic
inn is run by friendly owners Priscila and Pablo and has
beautifully decorated rooms. The
y also d
o great drinks and
food.
Daily 8-10am & 6-10pm.
R$210
Pousada Ponta da Mutá
Rua do Anjo, Barra Grande
T
73 3258 6028,
W
pousadapontadomuta.com.br.
Wonderfully located near the beach, with a choice of ocean
or garden view apartments, all with a/c, TV/DVD, ceiling
fans a
nd ham
mock on the balcony or terrace. Also has free
wi-fi
.
R$250
Itacaré
Some 55km south of Camamu,
ITACARÉ
is a small fishing port off the main
highway, BA-001, but much better known as a backpacker destination and haven
for
surfing
and all manner of water-based adventure sports, including rafting and
canoeing. The main town and port lies on the mouth of the Rio de Contas, with
most of the
pousadas
and restaurants on Rua Pedro Longo, east of the centre; a
short walk to the north lies
Praia da Concha
, lined with
barracas
and good for
swimming, while the surf beaches lie to the east and south - you'll need a car to
reach most of them.
