Travel Reference
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W villadaspedras.com.br. Luxurious option, with its own
beachside pool enclosed in lovely green gardens; all rooms
have a/c, miniba r and c able TV, and come with a fabulous
breakfast buffet. R$410
EATING AND DRINKING
There are several good restaurants around the Praça Aureliano Lima and Caminho da Praia in town, with cheaper
menus in the smaller, no-frills places towards the Fonte Grande. Most restaurants on the beaches double as bars, and drinks
prices are usually standardized - R$10 for 3 beers, R$8 for caipirinhas - but look out for happy-hour deals. Segunda
Praia can be smothered in tables on summer weekends, and you'll need to arrive early to snag one; further along the
scene is more laidback.
T 75 3652 1103, W pousadachezmax.com. Better thin-
crust pizza for your reais , with Italian chefs, relaxed vibe
and good music. Pastas for R$25-27 and pizzas R$24-32.
Daily 11am-10pm.
Marilyn Café Segunda Praia T 75 8814 9190,
W marilyncafe.net.br. The place to be seen on the
beachfront, with prime people-watching, quality cocktails
and a surprisingly good menu for such a pretentious spot;
try the moqueca (R$70 for two people), or fried fish ($60 for
two people). Daily 7am-late.
MORRO DE SÃO PAULO
Bianco e Nero Rua Caminho da Praia T 75 3652 1097.
Top spot for pizza and other Italian classics (the name is a
tribute to Juventus), steaks and seafood (mains R$18-45),
on an enticing terrace overlooking the main drag.
Tues-Sun noon-11.30pm, Mon 5.30-11.30pm.
Café des Artes Praça Aureliano Lima 190 T 75 3652
1057, W cafedasartes.com. Elegant place on the main
plaza with afternoon tea (4-7pm) sets from R$12, and
otherwise slightly overpriced seafood (R$48-75) and pasta
(R$28) - it's all about the old-fashioned ambience and
location. Daily 11am-11pm.
Morena Bela Rua da Fonte Grande. This cheap local
favourite knocks out stews, chicken, seafood and especially
tasty moquecas for just R$15-20 per plate, with seating on
plastic chairs and tables in a sleepy street. No sea views, but
this is a real bargain. Daily 11am-10pm.
3
Pedra Sobre Pedras Segunda Praia. Right at the
north end of the beach, where the path comes down the
hill, this bar is perched on a wooden deck with
magnificent views, cold beers, snacks and decent
caipirinhas . Open 24hr.
Tia Lita Terceira Praia T 75 3652 1532,
W pousadatialita.com.br. Relatively tranquil and cheap
beach restaurant where the food is better than the
accommodation, with big seafood mains from R$55
(including good moqueca ). Daily 11am-10pm.
THE BEACHES
Chez Max
Between Segunda and Terceira Praia
NIGHTLIFE
Pulsar Disco Club Caminho do Fortaleza 1 (the path to
the Fortaleza do Tapirandú) T 75 8104 3372,
W pulsardisco.com.br. Morro's party central is an Ibiza-
style club that really gets going in the summer, with decent
guest DJs from all over Brazil. Cover charge R$10-50. Fri &
Sat midnight-8am.
Toca do Morcego Rua Caminho do Farol 11 (on the
path up to the lighthouse) T 75 8106 6305,
W tocadomorro.com. Morro's second major club is located
in the jungle, with a fine roster of DJ talent, scintillating
views and more of a lounge-bar vibe. Cover R$35-50, but
get flyers in advance for reductions. Sunset sessions
Tues-Sun 4.30-9pm; club Fri & Sat midnight-6am.
Ilha de Boipeba
he beaches on the Ilha de Boipeba , separated from the Ilha de Tinharé by the Rio
do Inferno, are even more beautiful than those at Morro de São Paulo, but much less
developed, still possessing the tranquillity that Morro hasn't seen for over twenty years.
The settlement here is small and scattered across the island, with few facilities - just a
couple of restaurants and a handful of pousadas . The beaches are simply gorgeous, and
there's good scuba diving at the coral reefs near the Ponta da Castelhauos at the
southernmost point of the island.
ARRIVAL AND ACTIVITIES
ILHA DE BOIPEBA
By plane There is a six-seater single-prop aircraft shuttle
between Salvador airport and Boipeba (3 daily; 30min;
R$475 one-way, plus R$20 boarding fee paid in Boipeba).
Contact Bahia Terra for bookings ( T 75 3653 6017,
W boipebatur.com.br).
By car/boat From Morro's Segunda Praia you can take a
 
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