Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Senhora
at the southern tip (R$0.65 for entry via the pier; not included in tours),
the best and calmest beach, where several bars and restaurants cater to the daily tide
of sun-worshippers. Other than lounging on the sands and swimming, you can make
the short hike up the hill to the eighteenth-century
Igreja de Nossa Senhora de
Guadalupe
(restored in 2012), for sensational views across the bay.
Ilha de Itaparica
A narrow, 36km-long island, the
Ilha de Itaparica
was taken over by the Jesuits in 1560,
making it one of the earliest places to be settled by the Portuguese. It's now very much
seen as an appendage of Salvador, whose inhabitants flock to its beaches at weekends,
building villas by the score as they go along the strip known as
Ponta de Areia
. It's quiet
enough during the week, though, and big enough to find calmer spots even at the
busiest times. Itaparica is also famous for its fruit trees, especially its mangoes, which
are prized throughout Bahia.
The main town, also called
ITAPARICA
, was briefly the capital of Bahia, though
little evidence remains of those times: its most famous remaining sight is the
Fonte
da Bica
(Rua Antônio Calmon and Travessa 25 de Outubro), a natural spring of
mineral water still framed by its 1842 tiled facade and a favourite spot for Brazilian
tourists and locals to fill up their water bottles - the three taps are said to represent
love, health and money (the water is safe to drink and supposedly rich in health
benefits). At the other end of the
centro histórico
the
Fortaleza São Lourenço
(which
dates back to 1711) makes a nice photo-op along the shore, but is otherwise a
military base and off limits.
3
ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND
ITAPARICA
By ferry
Passenger ferries (daily 6am-6pm, every
30min; R$5-6; 40min) leave from Salvador's Terminal
Marítimo Turístico for the terminal at Mar Grande south
of Itaparica town near the beaches; try to avoid taking
the ferry at the weekend when hundreds of locals line up
to make the crossing.
By bus
For getting around once you're there, use the
kombis
(minibuses) and buses that ply the coastline, or rent
bicycles (rental places are easily spotted by the bikes piled
up on the pavement).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Club Med Itaparica
Estrada Praia da Conceição
T
71 3681 8800,
W
clubmed.com.br.
Yes, Itaparica has a
full-on Club Med resort with all the amenities, luxuries and
hedonistic temptations you'd expect, set directly on 300m
of its own beachfront. Meals and booze are all-i
nclusive.
As
always, you get much better rates by the week.
R$1050
Portal da Águas
Av 25 de Outubro, Marina de
Itaparica, Centro, Itaparica
T
71 3631 3239.
Modern,
stylish restaurant overlooking the marina, with a menu of
pastas, pizzas, fresh seafood and traditional Bahian food.
Daily 11am-3pm & 7pm-midnight.
Posada Claro de Luar
Av Beira Mar 200, Ponta de
Areia
T
71 3631 1163,
W
clarodeluar.com.
Spacious a/c
rooms (with TV) in a friendly B&B near the beach that is run
by an Argentine couple. Breakfast is excellen
t, and
there
are plenty of beach buffet restaurants nearby.
R$140
Cachoeira and around
The most rewarding day-trip inland from Salvador takes in the elegant colonial town of
CACHOEIRA
in the heart of the
Recôncavo
, the Portuguese plantation zone named after
BAÍA DE TODOS OS SANTOS BOAT TOURS
All day-trips around the bay depart from the
Terminal Turístico
ferry terminal in the Cidade
Baixa, with several kiosks selling tickets. Most follow similar routes; departing at around 9am daily,
they usually make stops at the beach on Frades (2.5hr) and then Ponta de Areia on Itaparica (2hr),
where a Bahian buffet lunch is offered on the sands, and usually an optional tour of the town.
You'll be back at the Salvador terminal by 5.30pm. During the boat ride you'll be offered fruits
(free) cold beers (extra) and be entertained by local samba musicians - standards are usually
high. Tours are usually R$45-50 per person; see
W
passeiosasilhas.com.br or call
T
71 8771 5949.
