Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cold and humid to support mummification. Instead, the bones of monks killed during the
Mongol invasion are preserved in a windowed sarcophagus; touching the sarcophagus is
considered good luck. The cave's benefactor and namesake, St Antony of Pechersk, also
helped burrow the Lavra caves.
While you're out here, it's worth checking out the monastery and climbing the
bell
tower
, which looks right down on the 17th-century
Trinity Church
, an important pil-
grimage site that is often mobbed with worshippers.
It's about a 3km walk to the monastery from the Dytynets, or you can jump on trolley-
bus 8. To get to Illynsky Church get off at the stop before the bell tower and follow the
dirt path downhill through the park across the street from the bus stop.
Tours
Explore Chernihiv
TOUR
( 063 262 4894, 097 284 8068;
www.explorechernigov.narod.ru
)
Canoe trips on the Desna
with overnight homestays or camping in rural villages. A good route is the three-day trip
from Novhorod-Siversky to Chernihiv.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Ukraina
HOTEL$$$
( 699 036;
www.hotel-ukraina.com.ua
; pr Myra 33; s/d 330/520uah; )
The lurid fabrics
draped through the rooms at Chernihiv's best digs would be hotel-style hara-kiri in many
other countries but represent a great leap forward in rural Ukraine. Big, relatively well
furnished and sound of plumbing, the rooms are a pretty good deal and there are even
smiles at reception if you wait long enough. Located right opposite the stops for
marshrutky
(fixed-route minibuses) to/from Kyiv.
Sharlotka/Varenichna
CAFE$
( pr Myru 21; mains 20-35uah; 10am-11pm)
Sharlotka is a laid-back coffeehouse, good for
snacks and light lunches; the adjoining Varenichna is an unexpectedly sophisticated but
inexpensive cafe serving a refreshingly limited menu of Ukrainian dishes in a dining
room decorated in red plates and flashes of traditional style. The staff in both establish-
ments cut new ground for Chernihiv in friendly service.
Falvarek
CENTRAL EUROPEAN$
