Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SOUTHERN BESSARABIA
Not too many Westerners venture into the fertile wedge of Ukraine that lies between the
Danube and Dnister Rivers. That's too bad because in addition to being beautiful in spots
it's also one of Ukraine's most culturally peculiar regions.
Its history is equally peculiar. From the late 15th century until Russia's victory in the
Russo-Turkish War of 1806-12, this region was part of the Ottoman Empire. The Turks
named it 'Bessarabia' after the Wallachian family - the Basarabs - who controlled the
area during the late medieval period. When the Russians took over, they expanded Bes-
sarabia to include most of present-day Moldova (plus a small slice of Carpathian
Ukraine). The section of Bessarabia lying south of the Moldovan border in present-day
Ukraine was dubbed Southern Bessarabia, or Budzhak. Between the world wars it was
part of Romania before the Soviets annexed it in 1940 and made it part of Ukraine.
MELTING POT ON THE DANUBE
Bessarabia has spent the better part of the past half-millennium getting tossed
around like a hot potato by various regional powers. As a result of shifting borders,
Moldovans, Romanians, Russians, Turks, Germans and Ukrainians have all called
this region home, as have several more obscure groups.
Lipovans
One such group is the Lipovans, Russian 'Old Believers', who were exiled from Rus-
sia in the 18th century for refusing to comply with Russian Orthodox Church re-
forms instituted by Peter the Great. Most of them settled near the Danube Delta,
where they still continue to live and practice Old Believer traditions such as cross-
ing themselves with two fingers, and not shaving. Lipovan churches - one example
is the St Nicholas Church in Vylkovo - are built in the shape of a boat instead of a
cross, and have two spires and separate entrances for men and women. The interi-
or walls are completely devoid of frescoes.
Gagauz
Next up are the Gagauz, an Orthodox-Christianised Turkish group, originally from
Bulgaria, who ended up in Bessarabia when the Russians annexed the area from
the Turks after the Russo-Turkish War of 1806-12. Today most Gagauz live in Mol-
dova (where they have their own autonomous republic, Gagauzia), but you'll find
Gagauz communities throughout Southern Bessarabia, including an active one in
Vylkovo. The Gagauz language, Gagauzi, is a Turkish dialect influenced by Russian
via the Russian Orthodox Church.
