Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
19th-century Odesa German who acted on his slightly mad idea of importing anim-
als from different continents to this unique natural steppe.
In addition to the above-mentioned species, the reserve boasts Przewalski
horses from Mongolia, camels, Central Asian saigaantelopes and all manner of
birds, from pink flamingos to rare steppe eagles. But perhaps the main attraction
here is the virgin steppe - flat as a skating rink and preserved in the same shape as
it was at the time of Atilla the Hunn.
As in Africa, the best way to see the animals is on a safari. Alas, that's easier said
than done. Apart from its zoo and gardens, the reserve is closed for visitors for
most of summer because of (very real) steppe fire danger. So late spring and early
autumn are the best times to take a safari (150uah per person) in a horse-drawn
cart (which is fun in itself).
Yet, if you are around during a cooler and wetter summer, it's still worth enquir-
ing about visiting. It's a long way, so to avoid disappointment arrange for a Russian
speaker to book for you by phone. There are a couple of hotels in Askaniya Nova,
the best one being
Kanna
(
613 37;
www.askania-nova-kanna.com.ua
; vul Krasnoarmeyska 22;
d from 380uah; )
.
Another large chunk of virgin steppe that you can admire is actually out in the
Black Sea. The isle
Dzharylhach
is separated from the mainland by a narrow strait.
It is also teeming with all kinds of wildlife - though, admittedly not African, which
makes it all the more more authentic. You can reach it by boat from the pier in the
resort town of
Skadovsk
.
Dzharylhach is a wild and melancholic place, popular with campers who walk
many miles away from the landing point, where chances to spot wild horses or
deers inhabiting the island are fairly poor. Note that camping is not officially al-
lowed, though in practice everyone gets away with a small unofficial fee to the
rangers - if they ever bother to approach.
If you come on a day trip, definitely board a military truck, which meets larger
boats. It takes people across the island to a beautiful sandy beach on the outer
side. Riding the truck with other tourists is fun and you might be lucky to spot
some wildlife.
Both Askaniya-Nova and Skadovsk can be reached from the regional capital Kh-
erson - a quaint, but otherwise unremarkable town sitting at the mouth of the
Dnipro. The local bus station has services to both Odesa (80uah, five hours, every
20 minutes) and Simferopol (115uah, 4½ hours) in Crimea. There are five buses a
day for Askaniya Nova (60uah, 2½ hours). Buses for Skadovsk are more frequent
(45uah, 2½ hours, half-hourly).
