Lviv & Western Ukraine - Ukraine - page 220

The remains of a hilltop fortress (admission 5uah) overlook picturesque Kremenets'
cluster of pastel-coloured, freshly renovated churches. The Mongols never managed to
capture this castle during their sweep through Kyivan Rus in 1240-41 (despite reaching
Kremenets' outskirts), but today it's easily breeched by individual hikers and day-trip-
pers. Dating from at least the 12th century, and possibly earlier, the zamok (castle) on
Bona Hill now lies in ruins, with only a ring of walls and a gate tower remaining.
However, it's a surprisingly pleasant spot for longer-term travellers in Ukraine to while
away a few hours and the views from the hill are magnificent (see if you can spot
Pochayiv glistening in the distance).
Unlike the Mongols, Ukrainian Cossacks did manage to conquer Kremenets 400 years
later. During the Khmelnytsky uprising against Poland in 1648, the town was liberated
by a band of Cossacks, who principally starved out the Poles. Some 100 or so of the Cos-
sacks who died in the accompanying skirmishes are buried in the remarkable Pyatnytske
Kladovyshche (Pyatnystke Cemetery), where stubby stone crosses stand lost in the long
grass. It's a tranquil spot at any time of day but get up here at dawn or dusk for a bit of
Ukrainian magic.
When the Poles regained control of Kremenets, they sealed their victory by building
another of the town's main sights, the Jesuit Collegium (1731-43), on the main drag
through town. In turn the Soviets sealed their triumph in WWII by plonking a bombastic
war monument right in front of the church.
When you've seen all the above, the obscure Regional Museum (vul Shevchenka 90; ad-
mission 5uah; 8.30am-5pm Thu-Tue) is worth a spin for its back-to-the-1980s exhibition
and light-switch monitors. Highlights include some interesting Cossack and Kievan
Rus-era finds, some surprisingly modest folk costumes and photos of prewar Kremenets.
Kremenets was the birthplace of renowned Jewish violinist Isaac Stern (1920). Jewish
communities lived here, on and off, from the 15th century until 1942, when the Nazis
massacred 15,000 people herded into the ghetto here.
The Old Town centre and fortress both lie 2.5km south of the bus station along the
main artery, vul Shevchenko. Turn right when exiting the bus station or bus station of-
fice, and walk 30 to 40 minutes to the town, which is strung out along the road. To climb
the hill, keep going to just past the edge of the town until you reach a turn-off marked
with a yellow sign bearing the words. The entire walk from the bus station to the summit
takes roughly 1¼ hours. Alternatively, take one of the many buses or marshrutky from
the bus station to the town centre to halve your journey on foot.
To reach the Cossack cemetery, look for the town market, with the word across an
arch. Heading from here back north to the bus station, take the next right opposite a small
car park. Bear left then left again where the road forks and walk about 10 minutes uphill.