Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
fairly frequent buses and pickups heading out this way from Nebaj, though it seems most
gringos prefer to walk out this way through the lovely countryside.
Accommodations
If you'd like to stay in town, there's
Posada Doña Magdalena
(tel. 5782-0891), with beds
in the dorm for $4 p/p or in the private double room for $7 p/p. All of the simple rooms
shareabathroom.ThehostelisrunbyafriendlyNebajensewomanwholivedinLasVegas
and speaks English, Spanish, and Ixil. Meals here are served family-style. There are tex-
tiles for sale as well as a Mayan sauna, or
temascal,
out back.
Among the local dairy farms is
Finca San Antonio
(tel. 5305-6240 or 2439-3352), star-
ted in 1938 by Italian immigrant José Azzari, who died in 1999. The finca is a pleasant
working farm run by Azzari's sons and grandsons and producing some delicious cheeses
made using centuries-old methods brought over from the old country. They're happy to
show you around and you're welcome to stay in the charming wooden cabanas featuring
tile floors, simple but pleasing decorative touches, and shared ($11 p/p) or private hot-wa-
ter bathroom ($13 p/p). One of the rooms upstairs has a deck with gorgeous views of the
surrounding farmland. Activities include nature hikes in the surrounding countryside and
there were plans to buy mountain bikes, maybe by the time of your visit.
Just next door along the road into town is
Hacienda Mil Amores
(tel. 5704-4817),
alsoownedbymembersoftheAzzarifamily.Thefourlovely,spacioustile-roofedcottages
areastepaboveitsneighbor'sandarebuiltofstoneorwood.Eachoftheroomsisdifferent
andhaselaboratetree-trunkorterra-cottafloorsandprivatebathroom,somewithchimney.
Room rates are $47 d. The property has several connections with well-known tour operat-
ors and has no trouble filling its rooms, so book well in advance if you wish to stay here.
This is also a working farm where you can buy cheeses. Kids will love the opportunity to
see farm animals and even milk cows if they're so inclined. Other activities include hikes
to neighboring villages and horseback riding. Meals are served family-style in the main
farmhouse, which is beautifully decorated with orchids grown on-site and has wonderful
views of the surrounding pasturelands from a pleasant wooden deck.
