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SAN JUAN COTZAL
Cotzal was the Ixil Triangle's largest town until the road to Nebaj was built in the 1940s.
It'snowrathersmall,thoughitssettingis(aseverywhereelseintheseparts)gorgeous,sur-
rounded by the imposing Cuchumatanes mountain chain. There's little to see in the town
itself, though the weavings here are some of Guatemala's finest. Market days are Wednes-
days and Saturdays. The Iglesia San Juan fronts a pretty plaza that has been remodeled
and festooned with flowers and benches. The church's interior is not nearly as elaborate as
that of neighboring Chajul, but its Christ statue curiously holds a staff with an Israeli flag.
Jesus was a Jewish carpenter, after all.
Cotzal has been enhanced as of late by a community tourism project. Tejidos Cotzal
(just behind the marketplace, tel. 5428-8218, www.tejidoscotzal.org ) is a cooperative of 30
local weavers who retain traditional methods of weaving using natural dyes and backstrap
looms. There are two-day guided tours tothe weavers' homes, offering awonderful oppor-
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