Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Like many other Mayan sites, it bore strong influence from present-day Mexico, an influ-
ence evident in its Nahua name, Cuauhtemallan, a derivative of which eventually gave the
countryitsmodern-daynamemeaning“landofmanytrees.”Societalorganizationherewas
based on lineages, with evidence of bitter rivalry between different lineages including ritu-
al cannibalism and human sacrifice. The new capital had been established for only about
50yearsbeforethearrivaloftheSpanish,whowouldenlisttheKaqchikelsasalliesintheir
quest to conquer the K'iche' and other Mayan peoples of the Western Highlands.
After the highlands were fully conquered, the Spanish established the first capital of
Guatemala here on July 25, 1524. Alvarado, however, began demanding excessive tribute
andtheKaqchikelssoonrevolted,eventuallyfleeingthetownafterAlvaradofinallyburned
it to the ground. From the surrounding countryside (demonstrating a remarkable symmetry
to the country's more recent history), the Kaqchikels launched a guerrilla war against the
Spanish that lasted until 1530.
Iximché is the most easily accessible of Guatemala's highland Mayan ceremonial sites
and makes an interesting stop for those with an interest in Mayan culture and history be-
cause of the differences it exhibits from the lowland Mayan sites of Petén, which date to
much earlier times. Like many of its more remote highland counterparts (Mixco Viejo,
K'umarcaaj, and Zaculeu), it was built on an isolated bluff surrounded and protected by
ravines. Its smaller structures also exhibit much more Mexican influence, attesting to
the population of the Guatemalan highlands by Toltec groups coming from the area near
present-day Veracruz.
In March 2007, Iximché made a convenient stopover for President George W. Bush, the
first lady, Laura Bush, and their Guatemalan hosts Oscar and Wendy Berger on their way
back to Guatemala City from a visit to a nearby vegetable farming cooperative. They re-
ceived a red carpet welcome of sorts, entering the ruins' main plaza on a specially made
alfombra
similar to the ones created for Antigua's Holy Week processions. They were also
treated to a marimba band, an exhibition of the Mayan ball game, and a traditional dance
performed by local children. In an impromptu display rarely seen in international protocol,
Presidents Bush and Berger even attempted to play some ball of their own before members
of the Secret Service rushed them on to the next order of business.
Of the ruined temple pyramids, only a few features stand out. The small altar at the base
of Temple II, on Plaza A, has faint traces of murals. Other features include two ball courts
and Plaza B, which housed royals. The museum has some interpretive displays predomin-
antly on Pedro de Alvarado and the Kaqchikel uprisings. There's also a 1:200 scale model
ofIximchébasedonan1882mapcreatedbyAlfredMaudslay.Theruinsareopen8A.M.-5
P.M. daily. Admission is $3.50. To get here, turn off the main highway to Tecpán. From
the town center there are buses, minibuses, and taxis heading out to the ruins, less than 10
minutes away.
