Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A much more pleasant alternative to the noise and pollution of Chimaltenango is a stretch
of the Pan-American Highway (CA-1) heading through the Western Highlands from the
townofTecpán,aboutanhourfromGuatemalaCity,allthewaywesttotheLosEncuentros
junction, from where a turnoff leads to a vertiginous drop down the sides of an extinct
volcanic caldera to out-of-this-world Lake Atitlán. Another road leads north from Los En-
cuentros to the department of El Quiché, with its colorful markets and highland villages.
Along the road from Tecpán to Los Encuentros, you'll find some interesting Mayan ruins
and good eats, should you need to stop for sustenance or simply want a break from the
drive to enjoy the wonderful sylvan settings.
Tecpán
The town of Tecpán proper is about half a kilometer from the main highway via a signed
turnoff, though few people actually go into the town unless they're en route to the ru-
ins of Iximché. You'll find plenty of roadside restaurants along this stretch of the high-
way, many with nearly identical menus. Some of these, such as
Katok
(Km. 87.5, tel.
7840-3384,
www.ahumadoskatok.com
) and
Kape Paulino's
(Km. 87.5, tel. 7840-3806,
www.kapepaulinos.com
)
, are perennial favorites with Guatemalans and are usually very
busy, serving a variety of grilled steaks, chicken, Guatemalan dishes, and cured meats in a
log cabin atmosphere.
If you're not a big fan of crowds, just across the road is the usually emptier and
somewhat more charming atmosphere of
Hacienda Tecpán
(tel. 7840-3780, haciend-
atecpan@ yahoo.es). The large,hacienda-style building isset among sprawling landscaped
grounds traversed by small streams and grazed by sheep and goats. The pleasant dining
roomoverlookingthegroundsfeaturestableclothsandsomewhatmoreupscalecountryde-
cor than its neighbors, with the emphasis on Guatemalan dishes.
At a turnoff from the main highway at Km. 90.5 heading to the village of Santa Apo-
lonia,
El Pedregal
(tel. 7840-3055) has pleasant grounds in a country setting away from
the noise of the busy Pan-American Highway. It also makes a great place for kids, with
ducks, cows, and other farm animals for them to enjoy. Delicious home-cooked meals in-
cluding sandwiches, fresh bread, and cakes are served in a lovely covered patio fronting
thegardens.FartheralongtheroadatKm.102,
Restaurant Chichoy
(alsoatKm.78inthe
village of Chirijuyú) is another good choice, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It was
originally started by a cooperative of widows from the civil war.
Iximché
Faced with the increasingly belligerent expansionist aims of their K'iche' rivals, the
Kaqchikel moved their capital from present-day Chichicastenango to the more easily de-
fended site of Iximché, surrounded on three sides by ravines, sometime around A.D. 1470.
