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views at sleek Aria (1 Macquarie St.; & 61/2/9252 2555; www.ariarestaurant.
com.au) are similarly eclipsed by Matthew Moran's intricate preparations—dishes
such as pan-fried jewfish fillets with globe artichokes and potato chips, a sweet pork
loin with black pudding and apple-and-elderflower purée, or a lamb loin roasted with
basil, ratatouille, and fennel. (It's worth forfeiting the view to book a seat in the
kitchen at Moran's chef's table.) Set above a swimming club on the cliffs overlooking
Bondi Beach, trendy Icebergs (1 Notts Ave.; & 61/2/9365 9000; www.irdb.com)
has its own breathtaking ocean view and a cool airy dining room with ice-blue
frosted-glass dividers and crisp white table linens. Somehow that view makes you
long for frutti di mare, and the menu obliges, with superb haute-Italian preparations
such as risotto with coral trout and oregano or savory Ancona-style fish stew.
Coming down several notches on the price scale, take a CityRail train out to student-y
Newtown, where the tiny black-and-white cafe Oscillate Wildly (275 Australia
Dr.; & 61/2/9517 4700 ) has a history of hiring daring young future-star chefs. The lat-
est, Karl Firla, started in January 2009. Molecular gastronomy experiments here
include salmon roe on a dollop of pureed cauliflower and white chocolate; or beef
cheek with watermelon foam and turtle bean. Need a break from kitchen wizardry?
Go “down the loo”—out to Woolloomooloo—to Harry's Café de Wheels
(Cowper Wharf Rd.; & 2/9357 3074; www.harryscafedewheels.com.au). Now an
officially decreed landmark, this food truck has been serving hearty meat pies since
1938. Even the hippest of Sydneysiders can't resist an occasional late-night stop
at Harry's for a meat
pie topped with
mashed potatoes,
peas, and gravy.
( Sydney Interna-
tional.
L $$ Ravesi's On
Bondi Beach, Corner
of Hall St. and Camp-
bell Parade, Bondi
Beach ( & 61/2/9365
1481; www.ravesis.
com.au). $$ The Rus-
sell, 143A George St.,
The Rocks ( & 61/2/
9241 3543; www.the
russell.com.au).
The view at Quay takes in Sydney's harbor, opera house, and skyline.
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