Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There are no fewer than 60 wineries on
Mornington Peninsula, and undoubtedly
one of the foremost is Stonier's. In 1978,
when there was no wine industry to speak
of down here, Brian Stonier bought a plot
of land in the area, hoping to do some-
thing special for his daughter's wedding
by making his own sparkling wine. On his
new land he planted the classic cham-
pagne varietals Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir (it was obviously a long engagement).
By lucky chance, Mornington's cool mari-
time climate proved perfect for producing
wines with vibrant acidity, and Stonier's
varietal wines were soon winning awards
around the world. (His Pinot Noir in par-
ticular has been declared the best on the
planet by several critics.) Stonier himself is
now regarded as one of Australia's pre-
eminent winemakers. He's gone well
beyond wedding bubbly.
Stonier's new winery, built in 2001, is a
startling arrangement of gray and white
corrugated walls and sharp angular open
roofing. Here winery staff members con-
duct excellent and informative tours; their
wine tastings also include food platters
that showcase the rich produce of the
peninsula.
Mornington Peninsula has its own
charms, well worth the excursion from
Melbourne. Traditionally an agricultural
zone and weekend getaway, “the penin-
sula” (as locals call it) has undergone a
recent renaissance. Weekenders and
tourists still come for the Mediterranean-
style beaches, but they are also flocking
here to check out the region's wineries
and a new wave of olive farms. Known as
the fruit basket of Victoria, the peninsula
has several farmer's markets, with every-
thing from apricots to asparagus in bounti-
ful display. Artists have set up shop, and
antique dealers are open to catch the wan-
dering tourist. There is a national park to
hike around in the toe of the peninsula,
and long piers where you can stroll down
into the sunset.
But whatever you do, don't forget the
champagne.
Stoniers,
Frankston Flinders Rd. and
Thompsons Lane, Merricks (
&
61/3/5989-
8300;
www.stoniers.com.au).
(
Melbourne airport (114km/70 miles).
L
$$
Crown Promenade Hotel,
8
Whiteman St., Southbank (
&
61/3/9292-
6688;
www.crownpromenade.com.au).
$$$
Lindenderry,
142 Arthurs Seat Rd.,
Red Hill (
&
61/3/5989-2933;
www.
lindenderry.com.au).
Southern Hemisphere
369
McWilliams Mount Pleasant Estate
Getting High on Mount Pleasant
Hunter Valley, Australia
In 1962 locals in the Hunter Valley noticed
a new type of weed growing along ditches
and embankments in this river valley 2
hours north of Sydney. The tenacious
green plant soon began appearing every-
where, along streams and rivers, ditches
and irrigation canals. When the Depart-
ment of Agriculture and Fisheries was
called in, they identified it as cannabis,
causing a sensation in the press (and
excitement in college circles). The police
promised to wipe it out in one summer.
They failed.
The rampant weed soon covered 30 sq.
km (18 sq. miles) and had overtaken entire
fields, some as large as 8 hectares (19
acres). A cat-and-mouse game began
between law enforcement and cannabis
lovers, with the latter making midnight
raids and harvesting the weed buds for
