Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
paying if you're interested in this most fa-
mous Turkmen handicraft. While there's a
limit to the number of rugs the average visi-
tor can stand, the central exhibit, the world's
largest handwoven rug, really is something
to see (though you can see it hanging from
the lobby when you enter - you don't even
have to buy a ticket). The 'expert commis-
sion' here is the place to have your carpets
valued and taxed, and the necessary docu-
mentation issued for export.
Azadi¨Mosque¨
MOSQUE
(Map p380; Shevchenko köçesi)
More a state-
ment of foreign-policy leanings than a sign
of religious awakening, the Azadi mosque,
similar in appearance to the Blue Mosque
in İstanbul, stands just south of Magtym-
guly şayoli, 600m east of the junction with
Turkmenbashi.
Mosque¨of¨Khezrety¨Omar¨
MOSQUE
(Map p376)
The modern mosque of Khezrety
Omar, off Atamurat Niyazov köçesi, is worth
visiting for its wonderfully garish painted
ceilings.
Iranian¨Mosque¨
MOSQUE
(Map p376; Tehran köçesi)
The angular, futuris-
tic Iranian mosque, illuminated with green
neon, is on Görogly köçesi on the western
outskirts of the city.
a popular spot for wedding groups to take
photographs with a golden statue of Turk-
menbashi. Nearby is a trippy giant copy of
Niyazov's once ubiquitous
Ruhnama
('book
of the soul').
Palace¨of¨Knowledge¨
NOTABLE BUiLDiNG
(Map p380)
Beyond the southern end of In-
dependence Park is the huge, golden-domed
Palace of Knowledge, three large buildings
that include a library, concert hall and the
Turkmenbashi¨Museum
(
%
48 95 79; Archa-
bil şayoli; admission 28.5M;
h
9am-6pm Wed-Mon)
,
which, taking a leaf out of Kim Jong-Il's
book, houses all the gifts and awards pre-
sented to former President Niyazov by vari-
ous people around the world. Expect to see
lots of gold.
National¨Museum¨
MUSEUM
(Map p380;
%
48 25 90; Archabil şayoli 30; admis-
sion per museum 28.5M;
h
9am-5pm Wed-Sun)
Looking like a lost palace in the urban desert,
the National Museum occupies a striking po-
sition in front of the Kopet Dag (p382). It's
actually a collection of three pricey museums
- the
History¨Museum
, the
Nature¨&¨Eth-
nographic¨Museum
and the
Presidential¨
Museum
. The History Museum is the only
one of the three that approaches value for
money, so give the others a miss. The lav-
ish Ancient History Hall includes Neolithic
tools from western Turkmenistan and relics
from the Bronze Age Margiana civilisation,
including beautiful amulets, seals, cups and
cult paraphernalia. There is also a model of
the walled settlement uncovered at Gonur.
The Antiquity Hall houses amazing
rhytons
,
horn-shaped vessels of intricately carved
ivory used for Zoroastrian rituals and official
occasions.
Arch¨of¨Neutrality¨
MONUMENT
(admission US$10;
h
9am-8pm)
Beyond the
National Museum is the President Hotel
(p379), some distance behind which you'll
see the Arch of Neutrality. Once the centre-
piece of Niyazov's Ashgabat, it was erected
to celebrate the Turkmen people's unsurpris-
ingly unanimous endorsement of Turkmen-
bashi's policy of neutrality in 1998. Above
the arch itself is the real gem, a 12m-high
polished-gold statue of Niyazov, which re-
volved to follow the sun throughout the day.
Now in exile, overlooking his beloved city,
Niyazov no longer rotates, but his comedic
posture makes it clear why the monument
was nicknamed 'batman' by locals.
1
Berzengi
South of Moskovsky şayoli the surreal
world of Berzengi begins - an entirely ar-
tificial brave new world of white-marble
tower blocks, fountains, parks and general
emptiness that culminates in the Berzengi
Hwy (Archabil şayoli), which is home to a
number of hotel complexes, museums and
ministries.
Independence¨Park¨
PARK
(Map p380)
The
Altyn¨ Asyr¨ Shopping¨¨
Centre
, the curious pyramidical shopping
centre at the northern end of Independence
Park, is reputedly the biggest fountain in the
world. Inside it's rather less than impres-
sive - an all but empty two-floor shopping
centre, although there's a restaurant on the
6th floor, and it's possible to take the lift up
there for great city views.
The
Monument¨to¨the¨Independence¨
of¨Turkmenistan
known universally to the
foreign community as 'the plunger' (for rea-
sons obvious as soon as you see it), is an-
other monument in the same park. This is
