Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ashgabat
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Gunesh
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Circus
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Botanical
Gardens
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Gypjak (11km);
Nissa (15km);
Geok-Dere (35km)
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See Berzengi Map (p380)
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and offer both vendors and visitors better
protection from the fierce desert sun. Few
travellers who have experienced markets
elsewhere in the region will find the bazaar
thrilling, though there are still some good
carpets and handicrafts on sale. Remember
you'll need to get an export certificate for
the carpet before taking it out of the coun-
try; these are available at the 'expert com-
mission' at the Carpet Museum (p374).
Tolkuchka is busiest on Thursday, Satur-
day and Sunday from around 8am to 3pm,
but it's open every day. Watch out for pick-
pockets. The new site is about 10km north
1 Tolkuchka Bazaar
Once one of Central Asia's most spectacular
sights, Ashgabat's legendary Tolkuchka Ba-
zaar is now sadly unregonisable following
a government relocation from its time im-
memorial location in 2010. Now housed in a
collection of vast, characterless hangar-style
buildings and surrounded by car parks, the
new Tolkuchka, or the Altyn¨Asyr¨Mar-
ket as it's now officially known, has none
of the old market's mercantile soul or cha-
otic charm. It's a crying shame, although
the new premises are no doubt cleaner
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