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17 A2
Mon Vieil Ami modest inventiveness
69 rue St-Louis-en-l'Ile, 4ème • 01 40 46 01 35
Open lunch & dinner Wed-Sun
Distinguished French chef Antoine Westermans take
on Alsatian cuisine bears no hint of pedestrian pork
and cabbage. Instead, its all about innovative food
combinations to match the unmistakably modern
interior of his one Paris bistro. Westermans culinary
mastery lurks behind a demure, easily missed
façade; in fact, compared to many eateries on the tiny
Ile St-Louis, Mon Vieil Ami seems very low-key
indeed. All the action is inside and on the plate:
generous servings of chicken with caramelized
sauerkraut and potato purée, and roast cod with
carrots, raisins and dates. Its lighter and more varied
than traditional Alsatian fare, but thats because a
Michelin three-star chef devised the menu.
Westerman might not be flinging the pans out back,
but hes there in spirit, and that means that the bistro
is fast becoming an old friend to many. Moderate
17 C1
L'Osteria risotto central
10 rue de Sévigné, 4ème • 01 42 71 37 08
Open lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner only Mon
Toni Vianello is the risotto maestro; hes even written
a cookbook on the subject, and his risottos are
simply sensational - especially the one with pheasant
and black truffles. This is some of the finest Italian
food around and, as a result, tables are jam-packed,
often with designers and political gurus. Moderate
16 H3
Anahuacalli a trip down Mexico way
30 rue des Bernardins, 5ème • 01 43 26 10 20
Open dinner only daily
Cooking from south of the border doesnt come much
better than this; forget runny guacamole and dry taco
shells, this is mole poblano (turkey cooked with choc-
olate) territory. Its serious regional Mexican food with
very good margaritas served up by charming staff,
albeit in a rather subdued atmosphere. Moderate
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