Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
structure and reconstructed lotus-bud
sikhara
(corncob-like temple finial), however, the
monument is clearly beginning to move forward from the early period.
The interior of this single-storey building is dimly lit, typical of the early type of Pyu-
influenced temples, with their small, perforated stone windows. With a torch you can
pick out super painting remnants along the interior passages, perhaps the earliest surviv-
ing murals in Bagan. Steps lead up to a roomy viewing platform.
Nathlaung Kyaung
HINDU TEMPLE
Between Pahtothamya and Thatbyinnyu, this stubby building - the only Hindu temple re-
maining in Bagan - has a fascinating history. Named 'Shrine Confining Nat', it's where
King Anawrahta stored non-Buddhist images, particularly ones for local
nat,
as he tried
to enforce Buddhism. The king himself described the temple as 'where the
nat
are kept
prisoner'. Severely damaged in the 1975 earthquake, only the temple's main hall and su-
perstructure (with seven original Gupta-style reliefs) still stand.
A sign dates it to the early 11th century. Some say it was built in 931 by Taunghthugyi;
if true, this was about a century before the southern school of Buddhism came to Bagan.
The temple is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu.
The central square of brick supports the dome and crumbled
sikhara
, and once con-
tained freestanding figures of Vishnu, as well as Vishnu reliefs on each of the four sides.
The statues were stolen by a German oil engineer in the 1890s, but the badly damaged
brick-and-stucco reliefs can still be seen.
Thatbyinnyu Pahto
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Named for 'omniscience', Bagan's highest temple is built of two white-coloured boxy
storeys, each with three diminishing terraces rimmed with spires and leading to a gold-
tipped
sikhara,
207ft (63m) in height. Its monumental size and looming height make it a
classic example of Bagan's middle period. Built in 1144 by Alaungsithu, its terraces are
encircled by indentations for 539 Jataka.
Plaques were never added, leading some scholars to surmise that the monument was
never consecrated. Visitors are barred from climbing Thatbyinnyu's inner passages.
There are some original murals near the west entrance.
A couple of hundred yards south you can climb up on the southeastern corner of the
old city wall. The small 'tally
zedi
(stupa)' just northeast of Thatbyinnyu Pahto was built
using one brick for every 10,000 used in constructing the main temple.
