Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Shwegugyi
BUDDHIST TEMPLE
Built by Alaungsithu in 1131, this smaller but elegant
pahto,
650ft (200m)north of That-
byinnyu, is an example of Bagan's middle period of temple-building, a transition in ar-
chitectural style from the dark and cloistered to the airy and light. Its name means 'Great
Golden Cave' and its corncob
sikhara
is a scaled-down version of the one at Ananda.
Inside are fine stucco carvings, a teak buddha and stone slabs that retell (in Pali) its
history, including that it took just seven months to build. Missing from the scripts are de-
tails of its builder's demise: Alaungsithu's son brought his sick father here in 1163 to
smother him to death.
TAN KYI PAYA
From the Old Bagan jetty you can hire a private boat to reach Tan Kyi village, where
you can arrange a taxi ride (or hike) up to
Tan Kyi Paya
, the gold stupa atop the
mountain, visible from much of Bagan. Views are terrific and unique, looking back
over the river to Bagan's mighty sprawl. A ride for three or four people, including
wait time, is about K20,000. The trip takes three or four hours.
Pitaka Taik
BUDDHIST LIBRARY
Following the sacking of Thaton, King Anawrahta is said to have carted off some 30
elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures in 1058 and built this library (just northeast of Sh-
wegugyi) to house them. The square design follows the basic early Bagan
gu
(cave
temple) plan, perfect for the preservation of light-sensitive palm-leaf scriptures. It's not-
able for the perforated stone windows, each carved from single stone slabs, and the
plaster carvings on the roof, which imitate Myanmar woodcarvings.
Tharabar Gate
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Do stop on the east side of this former entrance of the original palace site. The gate is the
best-preserved remains of the 9th-century wall, and the only gate still standing. Traces of
old stucco can still be seen on the gateway. On either side of the arched gateway are two
niches, home not to buddha images but to
nat
who guard the gate and who are treated
with profound respect by locals.
To the left is Lady Golden Face, and to the right her brother Lord Handsome. Like
most
nat
, Tharabar Gate's twosome had a tragic history. A king married Lady Golden
