Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 71

Tobermory
Mull's chief town, TOBERMORY , at the northern tip of the island, is easily the most
attractive fishing port on the west coast of Scotland, its clusters of brightly coloured
houses and boats sheltering in a bay backed by a steep bluff. Founded in 1788 by the
British Society for Encouraging Fisheries, it never really took off as a fishing port and
only survived due to the steady influx of crofters evicted from other parts of the island
during the Clearances (see p.415). It is now the most important, and by far the most
vibrant, settlement on Mull, and if you've got young kids, you'll instantly recognize it
as the place where Balamory was filmed.
he harbour - known as Main Street - is one long parade of multicoloured hotels,
guesthouses, restaurants and shops, and you could happily spend an hour or so
meandering around. The rest of the upper town, laid out on a classic grid-plan, merits
a stroll, if only for the great views over the bay.

1

Mull Museum
Main St • Easter to mid-Oct Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-1pm • Free • T 01688 301100
A good wet-weather retreat is the Mull Museum , essentially a tiny room packed with
fascinating local information and artefacts. Among these are a handful of objects
salvaged from the San Juan de Sicilia , a ship from the Spanish Armada which sank in
1588 and now lies at the bottom of Tobermory harbour; even today, it remains subject
to repeated salvage attempts by locals still, somewhat optimistically, seeking gold.
During World War II, Tobermory was an important naval base, in particular as a centre
for the training of Escort vessels, whose job it was to protect convoy ships from being
attacked by U-boats. Leading the training was one Vice Admiral Gilbert Stephenson,
whose prolific and strict regime (he trained up over nine hundred ships in just four
years) earned him the moniker “The Terror of Tobermory”. Such was the Admiral's
notoriety that he even had a beer named after him.

Tobermory Distillery
Ledaig car park • Easter-Oct Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; tours hourly between 11am and 4pm • £6 • T 01688 302645,
W tobermorymalt.com
Founded in 1798, the miniscule Tobermory Distillery has had a chequered history,
closing down three times since then, though today it's back in business and thriving
thanks to its signature 15-year-old Tobermory and 10-year-old Ledaig malts. Although
its tour is rather drab compared to most distilleries, you do get to see the four
magnificent copper stills, as well as try a dram or two at the end.

Glengorm Castle
Five miles north of Tobermory • Easter to mid-Oct daily 10am-5pm • £6 • T 01688 302932, W glengormcastle.co.uk
Lying along a dead-end single-track road, Glengorm Castle is a Scots Baronial pile
overlooking the sea. Here too is an attractively converted steading, housing a delightful
café, well-stocked farm shop, craft shop and art gallery. You can walk around the walled
garden or make for the longer forest, archeological and coastal trails; they also offer free
guided walks, though you need to book in advance. There's luxury accommodation
available here too (see p.76).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE TOBERMORY

By ferry The CalMac terminal is at the far end of Main St,
in the northernmost part of the bay.
Destinations Kilchoan (May-Aug daily; Sept-April Mon-
Sat; every 1hr 30min; 35min).
By bus The bus station is in the town's main Ledaig

car park, by the distillery.
Destinations Calgary (Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 45min);
Craignure (4-6 daily; 45min); Dervaig (Mon-Sat 2-3
daily; 25min); Fishnish (2-4 daily; 40min).

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LAPHROAIG DISTILLERY, ISLAY P.115 ; TOBERMORY, MULL P.74 ; BRODICK CASTLE, ARRAN P.109 >