Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 70

between Craignure and Tobermory, but there's more or less
no service along the west coast.
By car If driving, note that the roads are still predominantly

single-track, with passing places, which can slow journeys
down considerably.

1

Craignure and around
Craignure is little more than a scattering of cottages, though there is a small shop, a bar,
some toilets and a CalMac ticket and tourist office situated opposite the pier. However,
there is plenty of accommodation here, as well as a few places to eat and drink, so it's a
useful place to base yourself if you have a car.

Duart Castle
A848, three miles south of Craignure • May to mid-Oct daily 10.30am-5.30pm • £5.75 • T 01680 812309, W duartcastle.com
Perched on a rocky promontory sticking out into the Sound of Mull, and buffeted by
winds and weather, Duart Castle makes for a striking landmark from the Oban-Craignure
ferry. Duart was headquarters of the once-powerful MacLean clan from the thirteenth
century, but was burnt down by the Campbells and confiscated after the 1745 rebellion.
In 1911, the 26th clan chief, Fitzroy MacLean - not to be confused with the Scottish
writer of the same name - managed to buy it back and restore it, and he remained here
until his death, in 1936, at the ripe old age of 101 - look out for the wonderful black-and-
white photos of MacLean on his 100th birthday, still looking remarkably fit even then.
The top-floor room showcases some superb exhibits, particularly items belonging to
Fitzroy from his time serving in the 13th Light Dragoons and 13th Hussars, while you can
also learn about the world scout movement; in 1959, Charles MacLean (the 27th clan
chief ) became Chief Scout, a role he performed with some distinction until 1971. From
the exhibition room, climb up to the ramparts for superlative views of the island and
beyond, while on a clear day, you can just make out the summit of Ben Nevis. After your
visit, head to the castle's pretty, barnlike tearoom, where there's an impressive array of
home-made cakes on offer.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION CRAIGNURE AND AROUND

By ferry The ferry terminal dominates the centre of the
village, with the CalMac o ce located directly opposite,
in the same building as the tourist o ce.
Destinations Oban (daily every 2hr; 45min).
By bus Buses pick up and drop off by the main road by
the ferry terminal.
Destinations Fionnphort (Mon-Sat 3 daily, Sun 1 daily;

1hr 10min); Fishnish (1-4 daily; 10min); Salen (4-6 daily;
20min); Tobermory (4-6 daily; 45min).
Tourist o ce Opposite the ferry terminal in shared
premises with CalMac (April-Oct daily 9am-5pm, till
7pm in July & Aug; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun
10am-noon & 2-5pm; T 01680 812377), the tourist o ce
has an accommodation booking service.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Craignure Inn 400 metres up the road towards
Fionnphort T 01680 812305, W craignure-inn.co.uk.
A two-minute stroll up the road towards Fionnphort, this
eighteenth-century whitewashed inn, frequented by locals
and tourists alike, is a snug little place to hole up in. Quiz
nights and live music are regular weekly fixtures. Daily
11.30am-11pm.
Isle of Mull Hotel About half a mile from the ferry
terminal along the road to Tobermory T 01680 812544,
W crerarhotels.com. The hotel exterior is some w hat
unprepossessing, but its super waterfront settin g, po lished
rooms and friendly staff more than compensate. £95
Old Mill Cottage Lochdon T 01680 812442, W oldmill
mull.com. A sensitively converted mill three miles south

on the A849, accommodating three pretty rooms with
wood furnishings and cool little touches like roll-top baths;
they also provide attr active self-catering accommodation
in the old smiddy. £75
Ì Shieling Holidays Above a shingle beach half a
mile or so from the ferry terminal on the road to
Fionnphort T 01680 812496, W shielingholidays.co.uk.
This tidy campsite also offers cool accommodation in the
form of “shielings” ( large, sometimes furnished, hard-top
tents - think downmarket glamping), sleeping between
two and six. Some are en suite and some self-ca tering.
Boats, ca noes and bikes for rent. April-Oct. £16.50 /pitch;
shielings £32