Shetland - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 386

than 40ft by 20ft internally, with immensely thick walls, still around 4ft high, whose
roof would have been supported by spruce posts (two postholes can still be clearly
seen). To reach the temple, take the path marked out by black-and-white poles across
the moorland for half a mile from the road.

Vaila
A short distance across the sea south of Walls lies the island of Vaila , from where in
1837 Lerwick philanthropist Arthur Anderson operated a fishing station in an
unsuccessful attempt to break down the system of fishing tenures under which tenants
were forced to fish for the landlords under pain of eviction. The ruins of Anderson's
fishing station still stand on the shore, but the most conspicuous monument is
Vaila Hall , the largest laird's house on Shetland, originally built in 1696, but massively
enlarged by a wealthy Yorkshire mill-owner, Herbert Anderton, who bought the island
in 1893. Anderton also restored the island's ancient watchtower of Mucklaberry Castle,
built a Buddhist temple (now sadly in ruins), and had a cannon fired whenever he
arrived on the island. The island is currently owned by Dorota Rychlik, an equally
eccentric Polish émigré and her husband, Richard Rowland. They welcome visitors who
should make a point of popping into the Whalehouse at Cloudin, where they'll find
the 42ft skeleton of a young male sperm whale - nicknamed “Bony Dick” - who
washed up on the island in 2000. Enquire at Burrastow House about transport.

8 Sandness

At the end of a long winding road across an undulating, uninhabited, boulder-strewn
landscape, you eventually reach the fertile scattered crofting settlement of SANDNESS
(pronounced “saaness”), which you can also reach by walking along the coast from
Walls past the dramatic Deepdale and across Sandness Hill. It's an oasis of green
meadows in the peat moorland, with a nice beach, too.

Jamieson's Spinning Mill
Mon-Fri 8am-1pm & 2-5pm • Free • T 01595 870285, W jamiesonsofshetland.co.uk
The family-run Jamieson's Spinning Mill at Sandness is the only one on Shetland
producing pure Shetland wool; the modern factory welcomes visitors, and you can
watch how workers take the fleece and then wash, card and spin the exceptionally fine
Shetland wool into yarn.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE THE WESTSIDE

By bus There's an infrequent bus service between Lerwick
and Skeld (Mon-Sat 2 daily; 1hr), and between Lerwick

and Walls (Mon-Sat 4 daily; 45min), with a feeder service
from Sandness (Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 45min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
SKELD
Skeld böd T 01595 694688, W camping-bods.com.
A lovely old whitewashed building overlooking the camp-
site and the harbour; there's electricity, a solid-fuel stove
and a small shop and café (with free wi-fi) in the local
creamery. March-Oct. £10 /person
Skeld campsite T 01595 860287. A flat patch of grass
(with hard standing and electric points), right by the pier
and marina in the sheltered port of Skeld. The campsite's
little, white, weatherboa rde d amenity block (with kitchen),
is positively picturesque. £8 /pitch

WALLS AND AROUND
Baker's Rest T 01595 809308, W wallsbakery.co.uk.
Places to get a cup of tea or coffee, filled bannocks and
sandwiches, are few and far between in the Westside, so
this simple little tearoom above the bakery in Walls is
useful to know about. Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.
Ì Burrastow House T 01595 809307, W burrastow
house.co.uk. Beautifully situated about 3 miles southwest
of Walls, parts of the house date back to 1759 and have real
character; others are more modern. With fresh Sh etland
ingredients and a French chef, the cooking is superb. £110