Shetland - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 385

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE FAIR ISLE

By plane Directflight ( T 01595 840246, W directflight
.co.uk) runs a service from Tingwall to Fair Isle (Mon-Sat
1-3 daily) and from Sumburgh (Sat only).
By ferry The passenger ferry connects Fair Isle with either
Lerwick (alternate Thurs; 4-5hr) or Grutness in Sumburgh

(Tues, alternate Thurs & Sat; 3hr); since the boat only takes
a limited number of passengers, it's advisable to book in
advance ( T 01595 760363). The crossing can be very rough
at times, so if you're at all susceptible to seasickness it
might be worth considering catching a flight.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Be sure to book accommodation in advance as demand is high in the summer; note that camping is not permitted.
Although casual visitors can get something to eat at the observatory, all accommodation is booked on a full-board
basis. There is a shop/post of ce, Stackhoull Stores, in the south of the island (closed Tues & Sat afternoon, and all day
Thurs & Sun).

Fair Isle Bird Observatory Lodge T 01595 760258,
W fairislebirdobs.co.uk. Full-board accommodation is
available at the modern observatory in en-suite doubles/
twins and singles. FIBO is the island's social hub and offers
self-service tea and coffee, and a tuck shop with honesty
box; meals by arrangement. April-Oct. £120
South Light House T 01595 760355, W southlight

fairisle.co.uk. B&B memorably situated at the southern-
most tip of the island, not liter ally in the lighthouse, but in
the adjacent keepers' cottages. £100
Upper Leogh T 01595 760248, W kathycoull.com.
You'll be well looked after in this whitewashed crofthouse
B&B by spinning, knitting and weav ing expert, Kathy Coull,
who also runs textile courses. £100

The Westside
The western Mainland of Shetland - known as the Westside - stretches west from
Weisdale and Voe to Sandness. Although there are some important archeological
remains and wildlife in the area, its greatest appeal lies in its outstanding coastal
scenery and walks. Cut by several deep voes, the coastline is very varied; aside from
dramatic cliffs, there are intimate coves and some fine beaches, as well as, just offshore,
the stunning island of Papa Stour .

8

Sandsting
In the south, on the picturesque Sandsting peninsula, there's a very sheltered voe (sed
inlet) by SKELD , with a working harbour, a marina and a brand-new creamery which
you can visit. There are also two beautiful terracotta-coloured sandy bays just a mile to
the east at REAWICK , and excellent coastal walks to be had, to the southwest, around
Westerwick and Culswick, past red-granite cliffs, caves and stacks.

Walls and around
Once an important fishing port, WALLS (pronounced waas ), appealingly set round its
harbour, is now a quiet village which comes alive once a year in the middle of August
for the Walls Agricultural Show, the biggest farming bash on the island. If you're just
passing by, you might like to stop by the bakery and tearoom , but Walls also has several
good accommodation options.

Staneydale Temple
Three miles east of Walls lies the finest Neolithic structure in the Westside, dubbed
the Staneydale Temple by the archeologist who excavated it because it resembled a
temple on Malta. Whatever its true function, it was twice as large as the surrounding
oval-shaped houses (now in ruins) and was certainly of great importance, perhaps as
some kind of community centre. The horseshoe-shaped foundations measure more