Orkney - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 346

Scotland sites. First, you get to look round the family's private museum of prehistoric
artefacts; you can actually touch and admire the painstaking craftsmanship of Neolithic
folk, and pick up a skull. Next there's a brief guided tour of a nearby Bronze-Age burnt
mound , which is basically a prehistoric rubbish dump. Finally you get to walk the mile
or so out to the Neolithic chambered cairn , by the cliff's edge, where human remains
were found alongside talons and carcasses of sea eagles. To enter the cairn, you must lie
on a trolley and pull yourself in using an overhead rope - something guaranteed to put
a smile on every visitor's face. The cairn's clifftop location is spectacular, and walking
along the coast in either direction is rewarding.

Tomb of the Otters
April-Oct daily 10am-5pm • £5 • T 01856 831605, W bankschamberedtomb.co.uk
A Neolithic stone's throw from the Tomb of the Eagles, another Neolithic chambered
cairn was discovered in 2010 near Banks farmhouse by local farmer Hamish Mowatt.
The Banks Chambered Cairn or Tomb of the Otters as it's been dubbed, is unique on
Orkney as it was cut directly into the bedrock, and had lain undisturbed for five
thousand years. Layers of human bones within the tomb were found to be mixed with
vast quantities of otter spraint, hence the name. You can examine some of the skulls
and teeth found, and, if possible you get to crawl into the waterlogged tomb -
waterproofs and boots are a good idea.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

7

SOUTH RONALDSAY

By ferry Pentland Ferries ( T 01856 831226, W pentland
ferries.co.uk) operates car catamarans from Gill's Bay (3
daily; 1hr), near John O'Groats (linked by bus to Wick and
Thurso). John O'Groats Ferries ( T 01955 611353, W jog
ferry.co.uk) runs a passenger ferry from John O'Groats to
Burwick at the southern tip of South Ronaldsay (May &
Sept 2 daily; June-Aug 4 daily; 40min). Its departure is
timed to connect with the arrival of the Orkney Bus from

Inverness; there's also a free shuttle service from Thurso
train station for certain sailings. The ferry is small and,
except in fine weather, is recommended only for those with
strong stomachs.
By bus A regular bus service links Kirkwall with St
Margaret's Hope (Mon-Sat hourly; 30min), and a summer-
only one to Burwick connects with the John O'Groat's ferry
(May-Sept 2-3 daily; 40min).

TOURS
Pettlandssker Boat Trip T 01856 831605, W boattrips
-orkney.co.uk. Daily trips to Pentland Skerries or Swona
(pu ns and seals guaranteed) from Burwick harbour

- the boat is an ex-lifeboat, the skipper is Hamish from
the Skerries Bistro and tours cost around £30 and last up to
3 hours.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
ST MARGARET'S HOPE
The Creel Front Rd T 01856 831311, W thecreel.co.uk.
While the cooking here is really classy, the restaurant itself,
in a sandstone house on the harbour front, is pleasantly
informal. The short and seasonal menu regularly features
local beef and seafood, with three-course dinners for
around £30. The rooms are beautifully furnished and the
breakfasts are among the best on Orkney. Food served
April-Oct Tues-Sat 7pm. £110
Ì Roeberry House T 01856 831228, W roeberryhouse
.com. Spacious rooms in a beautiful Victorian mansion in
Hoxa. There are dogs, cats, chickens and peacocks, spectacular
views and a genuinely warm welcome plus a small kitchen
for gue sts' us e, a billiard room and free wi-fi throughout the
house. £110
St Margaret's Cottage T 01856 831637, W stmargarets
cottage.com. Handsome sandstone house on the edge of

The Hope, run by a genuine Orca dian couple; free wi-fi and
very handy for the Pentland ferry. £60
St Margaret's Hope Backpackers Hostel Back Rd
T 01856 831225, W orkneybackpackers.com. Simple
hotel, with a number of small rooms with double bunks -
singles, doubles and family rooms available. There's a
kitchen/lounge a nd a nice adjacent café with sofas and
free wi-fi. Dorms £15
Wheems T 01856 831556, W wheemsorganic.co.uk.
Rambling old crofthouse and organic farm, 1.5 miles east
of the main road, with a couple of wooden huts for hire,
a sloping field for camping, al l the usual facilities, plus
a communal yurt. April-Oct. £7 /pitch

BURWICK
Eastward Guest House T 01856 831551, W eastward
house.com. Housed in a tastefully converted former