Orkney - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 345

feature fish and sea creatures, since Orkney was at the bottom of a tropical sea in
Devonian times. The UV “glow room”, where the rocks reveal their iridescent colours,
is a hit with kids, though be sure to show them the coprolite (fossilized poo) among the
main displays, too. Upstairs, there's much wartime memorabilia and a whole section on
the Churchill Barriers - kids can build their own - while the ground floor has a
community-run café.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE BURRAY

Buses from Kirkwall to St Margaret's Hope call in at Burray village shop (Mon-Sat hourly; 30min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Sands Hotel 14 Main St T 01856 731298, W thesands
hotel.co.uk. An imposing stone-built former fish ware-
house overlooking Burray harbour - now a hotel with
simple pine furnishings and a few original features. The
bar menu features the usual dishes (all under £10), plus

herring in oatmeal, and mince and tatties; the restaurant
will serve up local scallops and black pudding (mains £12-
16). Food served Mon-Sat noon -2pm & 6-9pm, Sun
noon-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm. £99

7

South Ronaldsay
At the southern end of the barriers is low-lying South Ronaldsay , the largest of the
islands linked to the Mainland and, like the latter, rich farming country. It was
traditionally the chief crossing-point to the Scottish mainland, as it's only six miles
across the Pentland Firth from Caithness. Today, car ferries arrive at St Margaret's
Hope, and a small passenger ferry links John O'Groats with Burwick, on the
southernmost tip of the island (see opposite for details).

St Margaret's Hope
The main settlement on South Ronaldsay is ST MARGARET'S HOPE , which local
tradition says takes its name from Margaret, the Maid of Norway, daughter of the king
of Norway, who is thought to have died here aged 8 in November 1290. As
granddaughter of Alexander III, Margaret had already been proclaimed queen of
Scotland and was on her way to marry the English prince Edward (later Edward II),
thereby unifying the two countries. Today, St Margaret's Hope - or “The Hope”, as it's
known locally (from the Norse hyop meaning “bay”) - is a peaceful little gathering of
pleasant stone-built houses overlooking a sheltered bay, and is by far the best base from
which to explore the area.

Smiddy Museum
Cromarty Square • May-Aug daily 2-4.30pm • Free • T 01856 831440
The village smithy on Cromarty Square has been turned into the Smiddy Museum ,
particularly fun for kids who enjoy getting hands-on with the old tools, drills and giant
bellows. There's a small exhibition on the annual Boys' Ploughing Match , in which local
boys compete with miniature hand-held ploughs on the third Saturday in August,
at the beautiful golden beach at the Sands O'Right in Hoxa, a couple of miles west of
The Hope. Simultaneously a Festival of the Horse takes place, with the local children,
mostly girls, dressed in spectacular costumes and harnesses.

Tomb of the Eagles
Daily: March 10am-noon; April-Sept 9.30am-5.30pm; Oct 9.30am-12.30pm; Nov-Feb by appointment • £7 • T 01856 831339,
W tomboftheeagles.co.uk
One of Orkney's most enjoyable archeological sights is the Isbister Chambered Cairn
at the southeastern corner of South Ronaldsay, also known as the Tomb of the Eagles .
The cairn was discovered in 1958 and excavated by a local farmer, Ronald Simison of
Liddle, who still owns it, so a visit here makes a refreshing change from Historic