The Central Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 157

Ballater Caravan Park South of Anderson Rd, close to
the River Dee T 01339 755727. Large campsite down by
the water that mostly attracts touring caravans - tents are
welcome too, though, and th ere are laundry and shower
facilities. Easter-Oct. £13.50 /pitch
Deeside Hotel Just west of the centre at 45 Braemar
Rd T 01339 755420, W deesidehotel.co.uk. Welcoming
nineteenth-century house with relatively expensive doubles

and twins, all of which are en-suite. The bar downstairs is
stacked full of whisky and bottled ales, and the re's al so a
restaurant in the large conservatory out the back. £110
Habitat @ Ballater Bridge Square T 01339 753752,
W habitat-at-ballater.com. Excellent and well-equipped
hostel tucked away off the main road. Choose between a
bunk b ed w ith its of wn lo cker, or one of the private rooms.
Dorms £20 ; doubles £50

2

EATING AND DRINKING
Barrel Lounge 6 Church Square T 01339 755488,
W crannach.com. If you fancy a wee dram with the locals,
pop into this pub on the main green. There's an open fire
and usually, the TV is on in the corner. Mon-Wed & Sun
11am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 11am-1am.
Crannach Bakery A couple of miles east of Ballater
at Cambus O'May T 01339 755126, W crannach.com. A
cultured spot offering good coffees, snacks and light meals,
as well as superb cakes (around £1.50) and bread from its
in-house organic bakery. Tues-Sun 11am-5pm.

La Mangiatoia Bridge Square T 01339 755999. Cheap
and cheerful Italian place close to the middle of town and
popular with families. A meat feast pizza here will cost you
£9.20. Daily except Mon 5-9.30pm.
Rocksalt and Snails 2 Bridge St T 07834 452583. The
pick of Ballater's cafés, selling cupcakes, sharing platters
and light bites, including veggie options like goat's cheese
in a sweet chilli sauce (£6.50 with bread). Daily 10am-
6pm, Thurs, Fri & Sat till 10pm.

Balmoral Estate and around
8 miles west of Ballater, off the A93 Balmoral Castle April-July daily 10am-5pm • £10; audio-tours included in admission price (£5
deposit required) • Land Rover safari £60/person for 3hr (min two people) • T 01339 742534, W balmoralcastle.com Tourist o ce In the
car park by the church on the main road • April-Oct daily 10am-5pm; Nov-March Mon-Fri 10am-noon • T 01339 742414
Originally a sixteenth-century tower house built for the powerful Gordon family,
Balmoral Castle has been a royal residence since 1852, when it was converted to the
Scottish Baronial mansion that stands today. The Royal Family traditionally spend their
summer holidays here each August, but despite its fame it can be something of a
disappointment even for a dedicated royalist. For the three months when the doors are
nudged open, the general riffraff are permitted to view only the ballroom, an exhibition
room and the grounds. With so little of the castle on view, it's worth making the most
of the grounds and larger estate by following some of the country walks, heading of on
a Land Rover safari or allowing the free audio-tour to guide you.
Opposite the castle's gates on the main road, the otherwise dull granite church of Crathie ,
built in 1895 with the proceeds of a bazaar held at Balmoral, is the royals' local church.

DEESIDE AND DONSIDE HIGHLAND GAMES
Royal Deeside is the home of the modern Highland Games , claiming descent from gatherings
organized by eleventh-century Scottish king Malcolm Canmore to help him recruit the strongest
and fittest clansmen for his army. The most famous of the local games is undoubtedly the
Braemar Gathering , held on the first Saturday in September, which can see crowds of 15,000
and usually a royal or two as guest of honour. Vying for celebrity status in recent years has been
the Lonach Gathering in nearby Strathdon on Donside, held the weekend before Braemar,
where local laird Billy Connolly dispenses drams of whisky to marching village men and has been
known to invite some Hollywood chums along - Steve Martin has appeared dressed in kilt and
jacket, while Robin Williams has competed in the punishing hill race. For a true flavour of the
spirit of Highland gatherings, however, try to get to one of the events that take place in other
local towns and villages at weekends throughout July and August, where locals outnumber
tourists and the competitions are guaranteed to be hard-fought and entertaining.
Local tourist o ces and the tourist board website ( W aberdeen-grampian.com) should be
able to tell you what's happening where.