The Central Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 156

EXPLORING GLEN TANAR
Ordnance Survey Explorer map 395
Lying to the south of the Deeside town of Aboyne, the easily navigated forest tracks of
Glen Tanar offer a taste of the changing landscape of the northeastern Highlands, passing
through relatively prosperous farmland along the River Dee, through ancient woodland and
then to remote grouse moors and bleak hillsides in the heart of the Grampian Mountains.
Flatter than Glen Muick and without its vehicle tra c, Glen Tanar is a great place to explore
on mountain bike, although there is plenty of opportunity for walking and there's also an
equestrian centre in the glen (see opposite), offering riding trips lasting from one hour to all
day on riverside, mountain and forest horse-trails.
Leave the south Deeside road (B976) at Bridge o'Ess , one and a half miles southwest of
Aboyne, and carry on along a tarred road on the west side of the Water of Tanar for two miles to
a car park and the Braeloine Visitor Centre and ranger information point (April-Sept Mon &
Wed-Sun 10am-5pm; Oct-March Mon & Thurs-Sun 10am-5pm; T 01339 886072, W glentanar
.co.uk). Here you can pick up details on the various routes in the glen, as well as some background
on the flora and fauna of the area including efforts to protect the habitat of the rare capercaillie. If
you're on foot , the best idea is to strike out along the clear forest tracks that follow both sides of
the river, connected at various points by attractive stone bridges, allowing for easy round-trips.
Most of the time you are surrounded by superb old pine woodland, some of which is naturally
seeded remnants of ancient Caledonian forest, with broadleafs in evidence along the river, as are
wild flowers and fungi in season. The end of the glen, at Shiel of Glentanar , is eight miles from
the car park, from where you can either retrace your path or take to the hills: Mount Keen
(3081ft), the most easterly of Scotland's 3000ft-high mountains, looms ahead. The more ambitious
can pick up the Mounth road at Shiel of Glentanar, which heads up and over Mount Keen to
Invermark at the head of Glen Esk.

2

Pannanich Wells might be useful in curing scrofula. Deeside water is now back in
fashion, though these days it's bottled and sold far and wide as a natural mineral water.
It was in Ballater that Queen Victoria first arrived in Deeside by train from Aberdeen
back in 1848; she wouldn't allow a station to be built any closer to Balmoral, eight
miles further west. Although the line has long been closed, the town's rather self-
important royalism is much in evidence at the restored train station in the centre. The
local shops that supply Balmoral with groceries and household basics also flaunt their
connections, with oversized “By Appointment” crests.
If you prefer to discover the fresh air and natural beauty that Victoria came to love so
much, you'll find Ballater an excellent base for local walks and outdoor activities . here
are numerous hikes from Loch Muik (pronounced “mick”), nine miles southwest of
town, including the Capel Mounth drovers' route over the mountains to Glen Doll (see
p.155), and a well-worn but strenuous all-day trek up and around Lochnagar (3789ft),
the mountain much painted and written about by the current Prince of Wales.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE BALLATER

By bus Buses stop at the northern end of Golf Road, near
the A93.

Destinations Aboyne (hourly; 20min); Banchory (hourly;
40min); Braemar (9 daily; 35min).

INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist o ce In the renovated former train station on
Station Square (daily: July & sAug 10am-6pm; Sept-June
10am-5pm; T 01339 755306).
Bike rental Good-quality bikes, including mountain

bikes and tandems, can be rented from Cycle Highlands,
at 13-15 Victoria Rd (from £18/day; T 01339 755864,
W www.cyclehighlands.com).

ACCOMMODATION
Auld Kirk Braemar Rd T 01339 755762, W theauldkirk
.co.uk. As the name suggests, this pleasingly unorthodox B&B

is based in a renovated church. All of the rooms are u pstairs ,
leaving the ground floor free for a licensed lounge area. £120