Geography Reference
In-Depth Information
200
Figure S.13. north face of
The Spectre, the central
spire of the Organ Pipe
Peaks, showing our ascent
route.
and places to rest, so I mostly managed to climb with no problem. The most diffi-
cult passage of the climb—the crux—occurred at a place where there was a slight
overhang. The only handholds were high above my head, but there was nowhere
to place a toe if I pulled myself up. I thrashed around some as Mugs laughed and
tightened the rope. But then I found a bulge on the rock out to my left side that
could be grasped between my knees. From there I could reach the next handhold,
and we were both past the touchiest part of the day.
After about two hundred feet of roped climbing (two pitches), we made it
past the steepest stretch, and came out onto a rock face with a slope angle closer
to 60° than to vertical and with lots of snow-filled cracks that made planting
steps easy. Here Mugs packed the rope, and we continued upward across the face
(Fig. S.14). We had started the day in full sun, climbing in shirtsleeves with our
parkas packed, but as the sun circled its way to the south, we slipped into shade
and the chill that it brings. Rather than take off our packs on the steep terrain, we
decided not to pull out our parkas, and pushed on to the summit. A small cornice
of soft snow maybe eight feet high was the last barrier to the top. Mugs chopped
and kicked his way through and over it, and we emerged into sunlight on the flat
of the summit. In all directions splendid peaks reached for the heavens, piercing
the undulating mantle of white and blue. no sound stirred the silence. We took a
round of photos and then had some lunch.
You could say that we were pleased with ourselves. I can also say that we
brothers never felt closer. Each of us knew that he wouldn't be at this spot were it
not for the other. I had provided the opportunity and Mugs the expertise. What I
recall most was agreeing with Mugs that our parents would be more than doubly
proud. We lingered a bit longer and finally descended; I rappelled most of the
