Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HIKING IN WESTERN SNÆFELLSNES
Hellissandur makes a good base for exploring the foot of the Snæfellsjökull and the
surrounding
lavafields
. A recommended day hike of around 20km leads from the village
to Eysteinsdalur valley; take the unmarked secondary road between the campsite and the
maritime museum that leads towards the glacier. After around 1km the road becomes a
hiking path which strikes out across the
Prestahraun
lavafield, joining up after 4km with
the unnumbered road that runs up through the valley. Here, on the south side of the road,
a signed path leads up to the hill,
Rauðhóll
, to a red scoria crater. An impressive rift in the
lava can also been seen to the east of the hill. Continue another 1km along the road
towards the glacier and you'll come to a signposted path to the south of the road, which
leads to the prominent basalt spur,
Klukka
, and a beautiful waterfall,
Klukkufoss
, where
the Móðulækur river flows through a narrow canyon lined with basalt columns. Back on the
main road and another 1km towards the glacier, a path to the north of the road leads to
the
Blágil
ravine, where the Ljósulækir glacial river thunders through the narrow rugged
gorge. To return to Hellissandur, retrace your steps along the main road, beyond the turn
for the waterfall, to the hiking path that heads out to the north across the
Væjuhraun
lavafield for Rif. From here, simply head west along the coastal road to Hellissandur. Maps of
these routes should be available from the tourist o
ce in Ólafsvík (see p.172) and the hotel
in Hellissandur (see p.174).
Another recommended day hike (18km) leads first to the sandy bay of
Skarðsvík
,
walled in by cliffs and crags on its northern and western edges. The lava above the cliffs
is overgrown with moss and can be a good place to see rare plants. Excellent
fishing
can
be had in the bay's protected waters and it's therefore a favourite spot for local boats. To
get here, follow Route 574 west out of Hellissandur to its junction with the unnumbered
road signed for Skarðsvík; it's at this point that the main road swings inland, heading for
the glacier and the turn for Eysteinsdalur valley. Just 2km west of Skarðsvík the road
terminates at the peninsula's westernmost point,
Öndverðarnes
, a dramatic and
weatherbeaten spot marked only by a lonely lighthouse and a stone well which legend
has it is linked to three springs: one of fresh water, one of sea water and one of wine. The
promontory is a favourite destination for basking
seals
, which favour the pebbly beach
here. South of the cape the
Svörtuloft
cliffs are worth a visit; swarming with
seabirds
in
summer, the cliffs provided a major source of eggs and birds for the tables of local villagers
until the 1950s, when living standards began to rise. The free-standing crag in the sea
here,
Skálasnagi
, was once connected to the mainland by a natural stone bridge until it
fell victim to the pounding of Atlantic breakers in 1973. From the cliffs, a path heads east,
inland through the
Neshraun
lavafield to an area of small hillocks known as
Neshólar
before emerging at Skarðsvík.
3
desolate - there's nothing but wilderness between here and
Dritvík
bay, 24km southwest
of Hellissandur, first along Route 574 then down the 572 signed for Dritvík and
Djúpalónssandur. Once home to sixty fishing boats and one of the most prolific fishing
villages on the peninsula, the bay is uninhabited today, and centuries of fishing
tradition would have been completely lost if it were not for the continuing presence of
four mighty lifting
stones
at nearby
Djúpalónssandur beach
, a short stroll south from
the bay, all with individual names: the largest,
fullsterkur
(full strength) weighs in at
155kg, next comes
hálfsterkur
(half strength) at 140kg, then
hálfdrættingur
(weakling)
49kg and finally
amlóði
(useless) weighing just 23kg. Any fisherman worth his salt had
to be able to lift at least the latter two onto a ledge of rock at hip height to prove his
strength. The smallest stone is now broken - perhaps after one too many attempts by
weakling tourists.
Lóndrangar
The lofty
Lóndrangar
rock pillars are just 5km southeast of the Djúpalón lagoon and
easily reached from Route 574 on the unnumbered road signed “Malarrif ”. The taller
of the two is 75m high and known locally as the “Christian pillar”, with its smaller
