Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
neighbour called the “heathen pillar” although nobody seems to know why; both are
remnants of a basalt cinder cone.
Hellnar
Just like its western neighbour of Dritvík, the tiny settlement of
HELLNAR
, 35km south
of Hellissandur, was once one of the peninsula's most prosperous fishing communities.
However, the village is better known as the birthplace of one of medieval Iceland's
greatest explorers and travellers,
Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir
, the wife of Þorfinnur
Karlsefni. Together they attempted to settle in Viking Vínland in 1004, and, indeed,
Gúðríður gave birth to the first white child to be born in America, Snorri Þorfinnsson.
She eventually settled at Glaumbær, near Sauðárkrókur, where a statue in her memory
stands in the churchyard (see p.220). Today, though, Hellnar consists of nothing more
than a couple of farm buildings, a hotel and the odd holiday cottage either side of a
steep, dead-end road that winds its way down to a picturesque hoof-shaped
harbour
and a tiny pebbly
beach
where the occasional fishing boat is moored. To the left of the
harbour, the
Baðstofa
sea cave is known for its rich birdlife as well as its unusual light
shades and hues caused by the swell of the sea.
3
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
HELLNAR
By bus
Hellnar is only served by bus from June to August
when the circular service to and from Hellissandur calls in
on its clockwise circuit of the glacier.
Destinations
Dritvík (1 daily; 20min); Hellissandur (1 daily;
2hr 15min).
National park o
ce
Known as the
Gestastofa
, the
national park o
ce at the entrance to the village (late May
to
W
snaefellsjokull.is) has photographs and information
boards about the Snæfellsnes glacier, useful if you're
planning an ascent. You can also sign up for trips (mid-
June to mid-Aug; ask at the o
ce for departure details) to
a local foxhole where there's a good chance of spotting
Arctic foxes (free); as well as hour-long guided tours to the
Vatnshellir cave near Malarrif (2000kr including helmet
and headlight).
mid-Sept
daily
10am-5pm;
T
436
6888,
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Ì
Hótel Hellnar
T
435 6820,
W
www.hellnar.is.
Rooms here enjoy stunning views out over the sea or of the
Snæfellsnes mountains and are tastefully decorated in
bright colours which perfectly complement the dramatic
views outside. The hotel has been awarded a Green Globe
certificate for its contribution to ecological sustainability.
The hotel restaurant prides itself on its use of locally
sourced fish, such as succulent pan-fried catfish (3490kr),
as well as a range of meat and organic vegetarian options.
Restaura
nt May to mid-Oct daily 6.30pm-late.
24,000kr
Gíslabær
T
435 6886,
E
gisting@simnet.is.
Rather
simple guesthouse accommodation in a house perched on
the hill down into Hellnar looking out over the sea. Rooms
share fa
cilities and breakfast is available on demand.
7000kr
Ì
Fjöruhúsið
T
435 6844.
Atmospheric café with just
six tables in an old salting house right by the water's edge,
serving home-made cakes (800kr) as well as excellent fish
soup (1950kr); the arty interior is lit by a dozen light bulbs
suspended on long wire flexes.
Late May to late Sept daily
10am-10pm.
Arnarstapi and around
Just east of Hellnar along the main road - or a short walk along a clifftop path - the
village of
ARNARSTAPI
sits at the foot of Stapafell (526m). It comprises little more than
a few holiday cottages and a
harbour
, reached by following the road through the village
down to the sea - but beware of the large number of arctic tern that gather here during
summer and take pleasure in divebombing unsuspecting intruders. On entering the
village, look out too for the large stone
monument
to the pagan-age figure Barður
Snæfellsás who, according to local legend, still lives in Snæfellsjökull and protects the
area from evil.
