Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Johnnie Notions Böd
T
01595 694688,
W
camping-
bods.com.
One of the few places to stay in Esha Ness, this
tiny böd - the birthplace of a pioneer in smallpox
inoculation - is in a remote hamlet of Hamnavoe, north of
Braewick. There'
s n
o electricity, but there is a solid fuel
stove. April-Oct.
£8
/person
Whalsay
he island of
Whalsay
(population 1000), is in a world of its own, with a dialect even other
Shetlanders struggle to fathom. he islands' fishing crews operate a very successful pelagic
fleet of immense super-trawlers which can fish far afield in all weathers, catching a wide range
of species. he island is extremely fertile, but crofting takes second place to fishing here.
Symbister
he island's chief town is
SYMBISTER
, whose harbour is usually dominated by the
presence of several of the island's sophisticated, multi-million-pound purse-netters,
some over 180ft long; you'll also see smaller fishing boats and probably a few
“fourareens”, which the locals race regularly in the summer months.
Pier House
Mon-Sat 9am-1pm & 2-5pm, Sun 2-4pm • Free
Alongside the busy harbour is the tiny grey-granite
Pier House
, the key for which
resides in the shop opposite. his picturesque little building, with a hoist built into one
side, is thought to have been a Hanseatic merchants' store, and contains displays on
how the Germans traded salt, tobacco, spirits and cloth for Whalsay's salted, dried fish
from medieval times until the eighteenth century.
16
Symbister House
Heritage Centre
May-Sept Wed & Fri-Sun 2-5pm; Oct-May Wed 7-9pm • Free •
T
01806 566397,
W
whalsayheritage.co.uk
Overlooking the town is the imposing Georgian mansion of
Symbister House
, built in grey
granite and boasting a Neoclassical portico. It was built in the 1830s at great expense by
the laird Robert Bruce, reputedly not because he wanted to live on Whalsay but because he
wanted to deprive his heirs of his fortune. It's now part of the local school, though you can
still see the old doocot behind the house, and various outbuildings in the Midden Court,
one of which houses a
heritage centre
on the history of the island.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
WHALSAY
By plane
There are also request-only flights from Tingwall
(Mon, Wed & Thurs;
T
01595 840246,
W
directflight
.co.uk); day-trips are only possible on Thursdays.
By ferry
Car ferries run regularly to Whalsay from Laxo on
the Mainland (
T
01806 566259; 30min) - book ahead to
take a car. In bad weather, especially southeasterly gales,
the service operates from Vidlin instead. Laxo-Symbister
(every 45min; 30min).
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Grieve House
T
01595 694688,
W
camping-bods.com.
The only accommodation on Whalsay is this camping böd
in Sodom, on the edge of Symbister. The house has lovely
views overlooking Linga Sound, but is hidden from the road
to the Loch of Huxter, so ask fo
r d
irections. No electricity,
but a solid fuel stove. April-Oct.
£8
/person
Oot Ower Lounge
and Campsite
T
01595 566658.
A
family-run pub overlooking the Loch of Huxter - this is
pretty much the only place to eat and drink on the island
(phone ahead to check they're open and serving food),
with fish and c
hip
s for £10, and somewhere you're
welcome to camp.
£5
/person.
SHOPPING
Shoard
(no phone or website).
The country's remotest
charity shop is in Brough, halfway between Symbister
and the golf course; it has limited opening hours, but is
a must if you're in the area. Shetland's take on Aladdin's
Cave.
Wed, Thurs & Sat 2-4pm.
