Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Northmavine
Northmavine
, the northwest peninsula of North Mainland, is unquestionably one of
the most picturesque areas of Shetland, with its often rugged scenery, magnificent
coastline and wide open spaces. he peninsula begins a mile west of Brae at
Mavis
Grind
, a narrow isthmus at which it's said you can throw a stone from the Atlantic to
the North Sea, or at least to Sullom Voe.
Hillswick
HILLSWICK
was once a centre for deep-sea or haaf fishing, and later a herring station. In
1900, the North of Scotland, Orkney & Shetland Steam Navigation Company built
the
St Magnus Hotel
to house their customers, importing it in the form of a timber kit
from Norway. It still stands overlooking St Magnus Bay, rather magnificently clad in
black timber-framing and white weatherboarding.
Down by the ancient harbour is,
Da Böd,
which was founded by a Hanseatic
merchant in 1684, later became Shetland's oldest pub, and is now a seal and wildlife
sanctuary and occasional weekend café. he stony beach by the harbour is very
sheltered, but the nicest sandiest
beach
is on the west side of the Hillswick isthmus,
overlooking Dore Holm, a short walk across the fields from the hotel.
Esha Ness
Just outside Hillswick, a road leads west to the exposed headland of
Esha Ness
,
celebrated for its splendid coastline views. Spectacular red-granite
cliffs
, eaten away to
form fantastic shapes by the elements, spread out before you as the road climbs away
from Hillswick: to the south, out at sea, are the stacks known as
The
Drongs
, while in
the distance the Westside and Papa Stour are visible. After three miles, you reach
Braewick café and campsite, with a great view over the wide bay of Brae Wick, from
which several small dead-end roads lead off to the coast.
16
Tangwick Haa Museum
Easter-Sept daily 11am-5pm • Free •
T
01806 503389,
W
tangwickhaa.org.uk
One small dead-end road, off the main road, leads south to the
Tangwick Haa Museum
,
housed in a seventeenth-century building, which tells the often moving story of this remote
corner of Shetland and its role in the dangerous trade of deep-sea fishing and whaling.
Esha Ness Lighthouse
West of Braewick, where the road divides, the northernmost branch ends at
Esha
Ness
Lighthouse
, a great place to view the red-sandstone cliffs, stacks and blowholes.
Beware of the latter, some of which are hidden far inland. he best example is the
Holes of Scraada
, a partly roofed cleft, half a mile north of the lighthouse, where the
sea suddenly appears 300yd inland from the cliff line. he incredible power of the
sea can be seen in the various giant boulder fields above the cliffs: these
storm
beaches
are formed by rocks torn from the cliffs in storms and deposited inland.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
NORTHMAVINE
HILLSWICK AND AROUND
Almara
Urafirth
T
01806 503261,
W
www.almara
.shetland.co.uk.
Without a doubt the best B&B in
Northmavine, serving up a friendly
fam
ily welcome, good
food, free wi-fi and excellent views.
£70
Da Böd
T
01806 503348,
W
shetlandwildlifesanctuary.
com.
This eccentric, weekend-only café occupies a
rambling ancient building and the proceeds go to the
nearby wildlife sanctuary.
April-Sept Sat & Sun
11am-5pm.
ESHA NESS
Braewick café and campsite
T
01806 503345,
W
eshaness.moonfruit.com.
Café with great views of
the Drongs, serving soup, sandwiches and toasties,
plus home-made cakes and scones; phone to check
opening times. The campsite is pretty exposed but you
can always book one of the four wooden wigwams if the
wind gets too much.
Food served Mon-Thurs
& Sun
10am-5
pm
, Fri & Sat 10am-8pm.
Wigwams
£40
;
camping
£5
/pitch
