Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Textile Manufacturing
For in-depth information on textile manufacturing of
animal fi bers, the reader is referred to Volume 2 of the
Wool Handbook (von Bergen, 1963). As previously men-
tioned, fl eece and fi ber properties are estimated and mea-
sured because they affect the mechanical processing
behavior of the fi bers, the properties of the yarns and
fabrics into which they are incorporated, and they also
determine to a great extent for which end-products the
fi bers are best suited. For a more detailed discussion of
these topics, the reader is referred to the classic work of
Hunter (1993) on mohair and to the excellent review by
Leeder et al. (1992) that includes information on both
mohair and cashmere.
APPLICATIONS AND END USES
Mohair
Mohair is used primarily in apparel and household textiles
such as upholstery fabrics, drapes, and carpets. Compared
to wool, other specialty fi bers, and other natural and syn-
thetic fi bers, the main distinguishing characteristics of
mohair are its luster, smoothness, and whiteness that are
particularly distinctive because they lack the uniformity of
appearance found in synthetics. The brightness and true
color of dyestuffs are maximized when applied to the pure
white mohair substrate. Mohair is particularly useful for
upholstery and carpet applications because its durability
and soiling resistance are exceptionally good. Because
felting shrinkage is minimal, mohair can be used in prod-
ucts that must be washed regularly, such as dress and
sport socks. In the 1980s, mohair consumption in the fol-
lowing broad end uses was estimated by the Mohair
Council of America to be hand knitting yarns, 65%; men's
suiting fabrics, 15%; women's woven accessories and
rugs, 12%; and woven furnishings and velours, 8%.
However, the hand-knitting component has now almost
disappeared. In the U.S. particularly, the Mohair Council
of America has placed a greater promotional emphasis on
adult mohair for carpets and rugs. Classical end uses of
mohair include lightweight tropical suitings for mens- and
ladies wear; brushed articles such as sweaters, stoles,
scarves, and blankets; plush and pile fabrics; upholstery
and rugs; and, hand-knitting yarns (more recently, machine-
knitting yarns). Often, the mohair is blended with wool or
synthetic fi bers that improve product performance, assist
in processing, or reduce the product cost. End uses at any
particular point in time are greatly infl uenced by fashion.
Hunter (1993) documented 189 specifi c end uses for
mohair.
M
OHAIR
Mohair is washed in scouring plants to remove grease and
dirt. Most mohair (being longer than 9 cm) is then mechan-
ically processed through to the yarn stage in textile mills
using the worsted system. Briefl y, this system of process-
ing involves the removal of shorter fi bers so that smooth,
compact yarns can be produced. Worsted yarns are woven,
machine or hand knitted, or processed into rugs and
carpets. Mohair may be dyed in one of several forms: loose
stock, yarn, and fabric, for example. Fabrics are fi nished
using specialized processes that are designed to produce
different effects and handle (feel) in the fi nished product.
These may include shearing and singeing (to produce a
clear surface), decating (a wet process that uses heat to
stabilize fabrics), fulling (a felting process to consolidate
fabrics), brushing (to produce a hairy surface), and press-
ing. Like the dehairing process for cashmere, the specifi cs
of many of these mechanical, dry, and wet processes for
mohair are closely guarded industrial secrets.
C
ASHMERE
Combed or shorn cashmere is scoured, dehaired, and pro-
cessed into yarn using either the worsted or woolen system
depending on staple length and intended end use. While
accommodating shorter fi bers, the woolen system pro-
duces softer, bulkier yarns that are required for many of
the softer-handling knitwear products in which cashmere
is typically used. Historically, Italy and Scotland have
excelled in the production of high quality cashmere tex-
tiles. In recent times, the two major producing countries,
China and Mongolia, have purchased or manufactured the
necessary equipment and developed the expertise to
produce fi ne cashmere products domestically.
Cashmere
Most cashmere is spun into fi ne woolen yarns that are
subsequently knitted on fully fashioned knitting machines
into apparel knitwear such as cardigans and sweaters as
well as accessories such as scarves, shawls, socks, and
gloves. Woven fabrics are produced from both woolen and
worsted yarns and are typically tailored into high quality
men's and women's outerwear. Because of the high price
of cashmere, it is often blended with very fi ne wool to
obtain products that are less expensive while still having
similar appeal to those made with pure cashmere to all
except the most discerning wearer.
