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stunning views, one of postcard-perfect ricefields. There's a pool for swimming at a nearby
waterfall and power is supplied by a small hydroelectric scheme. Offers cultural classes (in-
cluding cooking or basket-weaving), mas sage, trekking and mountain-biking and there's a
restaurant with utterly glorious views. $98
Sarinbuana Eco Lodge 0828 9700 6079, baliecolodge.com . One of Bali's original
eco-stays run by committed environmentalists, this award-winning place remains exception-
al. Its five jungle-chic bungalows in a rainforest clearing make the most of the surround-
sound of nature as much as views across pristine forest. As a genuinely community-conscious
project, it grows organic fruit and veg - meals in the restaurant are fresh and delicious - or-
ganizes workshops in massage, yoga, permaculture, cookery and woodcarving, and sets up
guided walks and mountain-bike trips. Two nights minimum. $150
< Back to West Bali
Balian Beach and the west
Few tourists venture further west than Tanah Lot, but the stretch of coast beyond Tabanan
holds some nice surprises at the black-sand beaches of Balian and Medewi . Just beyond Me-
dewi, the spectacular cliffside temple of Pura Rambut Siwi is almost as stunningly located
as Tanah Lot but far less crowded with visitors. The flip side to glorious isolation is a lack
of facilities - while larger hotels provide money exchanges or advance cash on credit cards,
ATMs are in short supply and the few that exist don't accept all cards. Be safe: wedge up in
Tabanan . The other caveat is the heavy traffic on the road to Gilimanuk. Take extra care if
you're travelling by your own transport.
The scenery in the far west is generally dry and rugged. Cloud-capped, forested mountains
hold very few villages and much of the land is protected by Bali's Forestry Department, with
the most important habitats conserved as Bali Barat National Park . It's the only national
park on the island, explored by few tourists, but it can be rewarding for birdwatchers and
snorkellers - some of Bali's best coral fringes Pulau Menjangan ( Deer Island ).
Balian Beach
Having continued inland from Tabanan, the road to Gilimanuk finally drops down to the
coast, affording sea views to southeast Java and occasional panoramas of paddy fields inland.
About 10km west of Antosari, the Gilimanuk road zips through Lalang Linggah , the village
closest to Balian Beach , a spiritually charged spot at the mouth of the Balian River (Sungai
Balian). Its caves and headlands are frequented by priests and shamen - and now tourists.
As ever in Bali, surfers got here first - Balian Beach has the most consistent left-hand
breaks in west Bali, with larger waves breaking behind off a shelf and gentler peaks inshore.
Board rental is widely available for around Rp70,000 a day. But whether you're a surfer or
not, you may well find this mellow village the most relaxed escape on the west coast to be.
 
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