THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok - page 318

THE CLOVE TRAIL
It was the search for cloves , among other spices, that first drove Europeans to explore
the Indonesian archipelago, and for hundreds of years they were one of the region's most
lucrative exports. Native to certain islands of the Moluccas (the original “Spice Islands”),
cloves are now grown mainly in Maluku, Sumatra, Sulawesi and Bali. You'll spot the tall
trees in the hills around Bedugul, Tamblingan and Munduk and if you're there during har-
vest time, from August to October, you'll see death-defying pickers on rickety ladders and
huge piles of drying cloves beside the road - buds that must be picked before the petals
open, after which the amount of clove oil declines sharply.
Bali's cloves end up in Java for the manufacture of Indonesia's pungent kretek cigarettes .
These consist of up to fifty percent cloves mixed with tobacco, and demand is so great that
the former clove capital of the world now imports them from Madagascar and Zanzibar to
supplement local production.
Tanah Barak waterfall
The most accessible of several falls in the area is pretty Tanah Barak waterfall , also known
as Red Coral waterfall or simply Munduk waterfall. Take a signposted track off the main road
1km east of Munduk, pay Rp2000 at an ad hoc booth (usually - it's not always manned) and
you can take a short rainforest track to reach this impressive cascade which plumes into a
lush gorge. There are several other falls in the area to make a half-day trip from central Mun-
duk.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: MUNDUK AND AROUND
Munduk is 8km west of Danau Tamblingan, 20km northwest of Candikuning and 20km
southeast of Seririt. Access by public transport is possible but long and circuitous; bemos are
most reliable in the early morning.
By shuttle bus Coming from southern resorts or Ubud, take the Perama shuttle bus to Be-
dugul (Pancasari), then change for a bemo to Munduk. You may need to charter one (around
Rp150,000).
By bemo Bemos travel up to Munduk from Seririt, itself easily reached by bemo from Pe-
muteran or Lovina on the north coast. There are also bemos every few hours from Denpasar's
Ubung terminal (that said, get there before 9am if possible). Note that return bemos usually
leave very early, between 4am and 7am, though ask locally about afternoon runs.
Destinations Denpasar (Ubung; 2hr 30min); Seririt (1hr).
By taxi Enterprising locals now offer taxi charter transport out of Munduk: look for the
“Taxi” sign in the village centre or try Duta's Transport at the east end ( 0819 3667 1141).