THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok - page 260

the northern slopes and the soil has since benefited from the extra fertilizer, as the endless
ricefields show.
The main activity in these parts is ricefield appreciation , either from the comfort of your
veranda or on a walk through the fields to nearby villages and temples. Guesthouses can sup-
ply a basic sketch map or you can take a guide for your first outing (Rp50,000/group/hr).
Alternatively, head up to the southern end of the main road for Sidemen's excellent crafts
shops .
THE RENDANG-AMLAPURA ROAD
From Rendang , 14km north of Semarapura on the main route to Kintamani, a picturesque
road heads 32km east to Amlapura , running beneath Gunung Agung via ricefields, forest
and deep river valleys. The scenery is good but the going is slow, the potholed road
crowded with trucks bringing charcoal-coloured sand down from the mountain.
After crossing the River Telaga Waja, whose serpentine 14km-long descent is used by
whitewater rafting companies such as Alam ( alam-amazing-adventures.com ) and Bali
Adventure Rafting ( baliadventuretours.com ), you pass through Muncan, a possible base
for climbing Gunung Agung . From Muncan , a further 5km brings you to the western edge
of Selat , an obvious base for treks up Gunung Agung , and the turn-off to the important
Pura Pasar Agung , directional temple for the northeast. At 1600m above sea level this
is one of the two main starting points for Gunung Agung ascents. The road to the temple
is an ear-poppingly steep climb of 10km through bamboo stands and acacia forests, in
countryside scored by deep lava-carved gorges. The temple itself, however, is probably not
worth a special journey, though on a clear morning you do get fine views.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SIDEMEN AND AROUND
By bemo Bemos drop passengers off along the main road through the village.
Destinations Semarapura (30min).
By car Recommended local drivers and guides are I Ketut Jana ( 0813 3806 2202) and Ke-
tut Lagun ( 0812 362 2076, [e-mail] ) .
By motorbike Jana restaurant rents motorbikes (Rp60,000).
GETTING AROUND
By bemo In the morning, and less frequently in the afternoon, bemos connect Rendang with
Amlapura and also serve Menanga to the north, for Besakih. Selat is served by bemos from
Gianyar, Amlapura and Denpasar's Batubulan terminal (mornings only).