Microalgae: A Renewable Source of Bioproducts - Food and Industrial Bioproducts and Bioprocessing - page 230

9.10 MICROALGAE IN COSMETICS AND SKIN CARE
Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have been identified in a wide range of marine
animals and are thought to act as natural sunscreens. These water-soluble compounds
contain either a cyclohexenone or cyclohexenimine ring conjugated with the nitrogen
substituent of an amino acid. MAAs are thought to absorb the energy of ultraviolet radiation
before it reaches cellular targets and dissipates this energy as heat. In marine symbioses such
as corals that contain zooxanthellae the MAAs are assumed to be synthesised by
endosymbiotic algae and translocated to their invertebrate host (Banaszak and Trench,
1995), although this may not be the case in all invertebrate-algal symbioses (Mason et al .,
1998). MAAs are now known to be found in cyanobacteria, fungi, macroalgae and
microalgae (Balskus and Walsh, 2010, and references therein). The MAA gene cluster from
a cyanobacterium Anabaena variabilis has now been sequenced (Balskus and Walsh, 2010).
Sunscreen Technologies in Australia developed a lotion that contains a synthetic cousin of
MAAs based on research carried out at the Australian Institute of Marine Science. The
possibility that natural sources of MAAs might be the basis of natural sunscreen products is
still being pursued.
Some microalgal species are established in the skin care market, the main ones being
Arthrospira and Chlorella (Spolaore et al ., 2006). Some cosmetic companies have even
invested in their own microalgal production system (LVMH in Paris, France and Daniel
Jouvance in Carnac, France). Microalgae extracts are mainly used in face and skin care
products (e.g. anti-aging cream, refreshing or regenerative care products, emollient and as
an anti-irritant in peelers). Microalgae are also represented in sun protection and hair care
products. Two examples of commercially available products and their properties claimed by
their companies are: a protein-rich extract from Arthrospira that repairs the signs of early
skin aging, exerts a tightening effect and prevents stria formation (Protulines, Exsymol
SAM, Monaco); and an extract from Chlorella vulgaris that stimulates collagen synthesis in
skin, thereby supporting tissue regeneration and wrinkle reduction (Dermochlorella, Codif,
St Malo, France).
Recently, two new products have been launched by Pentapharm (Basel, Switzerland): an
ingredient from Nannochloropsis oculata with skin-tightening properties (short and long
term effects) (Pepha-Tight) and an ingredient from D. salina , which shows the ability to
stimulate cell proliferation and turnover (Pepha-Ctive)(Stolz and Obermayer, 2003).
9.11 MICROALGAE BIOPRODUCTS: FUTURE POTENTIAL
Bioproducts from microalgae that are currently commercially viable are for high value
products, not commodity products. This is a quandary for those with intense interest in
developing microalgae for biofuels and other energy applications where low value microalgal
production is needed (US DOE, 2010). Previous estimates of the economics of microalgal
biotechnological applications (Borowitzka, 1992 ; Richmond, 2000 ) in essence still hold
true: that current economics and markets are for high value compounds and algal biomass
for aquaculture feeds and human consumption. Further development in these areas will pave
the way for new products, both high and low value.
The twenty-first century has the potential to be the time when 'microalgae come of
age'. Their historical use as a food and medicine by humans, and their essential place in