Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EasternEuropeanJews.Theexhibitseguesintothe
darkdays
ofHitler—the collapse ofthe
relativelytolerantWeimarRepublic,theriseoftheNazis,andthehorrificnightofNovember
9-10, 1938, when, throughout Germany, hateful mobs destroyed Jewish-owned businesses,
homes, synagogues, and even entire villages—called “Crystal Night” (Kristallnacht) for the
broken glass that glittered in the streets.
The thought-provoking conclusion brings us to the present day, with the question: How
do you keep going after six million of your people have been murdered? You'll see how
German society has reacted to the Holocaust blood on its hands (one fascinating exhibit has
footage of a 1975 sit-in of German Jews to protest a controversial play with a stereotypical
Jewish villain), and listen to headphone commentary of Jewish people describing their ex-
periences growing up in postwar Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.
The biggest remaining stretch of the Wall is now “the world's longest outdoor art gallery.”
It stretches for nearly a mile and is covered with murals painted by artists from around the
world. The murals (classified as protected monuments) got a facelift in 2009, when the city
invited the original artists back to re-create their work for the 20th anniversary of the fall of
theWall.ThissegmentoftheWallmakesapoignantwalk.Foraquicklook,taketheS-Bahn
to the Ostbahnhof station (follow signs to Stralauerplatz exit; once outside, TV Tower will
be to your right; go left and at next corner look to your right—the Wall is across the busy
street). The gallery is slowly being consumed by developers. If you walk the entire length of
theEastSideGallery,you'llfindasmallWallsouvenirshopattheendandabridgecrossing
the river to a subway station at Schlesisches Tor (in Kreuzberg). The bridge, a fine example
of Brandenburg Neo-Gothic brickwork, has a fun neon “rock, paper, scissors” installment
poking fun at the futility of the Cold War (visible only after dark).
This district—once abutting the dreary Wall and inhabited mostly by poor Turkish guest
laborers and their families—is still run-down, with graffiti-riddled buildings and plenty of
student and Turkish street life. It offers a gritty look at melting-pot Berlin, in a city where
original Berliners are as rare as old buildings. Berlin is the largest Turkish city outside of
Turkeyitself,andKreuzbergisits“downtown.”Buttocallita“littleIstanbul”insultsthebig
one.You'llsee
DönerKebab
stands,shopsdecoratedwithspraypaint,andmotherswrapped
incolorfulscarves.Butlately,aninfluxofimmigrantsfrommanyothercountrieshasdiluted
the Turkish-ness of Kreuzberg. Berliners come here for fun ethnic eateries. For an easy dose
of Kreuzberg, joyride on bus #129 (catch it near Jewish Museum). For a colorful stroll, take
