Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the U-Bahn to Kottbusser Tor and wander—ideally on Tuesday and Friday between 12:00
and 18:00, when the Turkish Market sprawls along the Maybachufer riverbank.
There are few major sights to the north of Unter den Linden, but this area has some of Ber-
lin'strendiest, mostinteresting neighborhoods.I'velisted these roughlyfromsouthtonorth,
as you'd approach them from the city center and Unter den Linden. On a sunny day, a stroll
(or tram ride) through these bursting-with-life areas can be as engaging as any museum in
town.
This area, in front of the S-Bahn station of the same name, is a great people scene day and
night. The brick trestle supporting the train track is another classic example of the city's
Brandenburg Neo-Gothic brickwork. Most of the brick archways are now filled with hip
shops, which have official—and newly trendy—addresses such as “S-Bahn Arch #9, Hack-
escher Markt.” Within 100 yards of the S-Bahn station, you'll find Hackeschen Höfe (de-
scribed next), recommended Turkish and Bavarian restaurants, walking-tour and pub-crawl
departure points, and tram #M1 to Prenzlauer Berg.
Hackeschen Höfe
(a block in front of the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station) is a series
ofeightcourtyardsbunny-hoppingthroughawonderfullyrestored1907
Jugendstil
(German
Art Nouveau) building. Berlin's apartments are organized like this—courtyard after court-
yard leading off the main roads. This complex is full of trendy restaurants (including the
recommended Turkish eatery, Hasir), theaters, and cinemas (playing movies in their origin-
al languages). This is a wonderful example of how to make huge city blocks livable. Two
decades after the Cold War, this area has reached the final evolution of East Berlin's urban
restoration.(Thesecourtyardsalsoserveausefullessonforvisitors:MuchofBerlin'scharm
hides off the street front.)
Oranienburger Strasse is anchored by an important and somber sight, the New Synagogue.
But the rest of this zone (roughly between the synagogue and Torstrasse) is colorful and
quirky—especially after dark. The streets behind Grosse Hamburger Strasse flicker with at-
mosphericcafés,
Kneipen
(pubs),andartgalleries.Atnight(fromabout20:00),techno-pros-
titutes line Oranienburger Strasse. Prostitution is legal throughout Germany. Prostitutes pay
taxes and receive health care insurance like anyone else. On this street, they hire security
guards (lingering nearby) for safety—and they all seem to buy their Barbarella wardrobes at
the same place.
