GERMANY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 597

Wine-Drinking in the Old Center
(See “Rothenburg Restaurants” map, here . )
Trinkstube zur Hölle (“Hell”) is dark and foreboding, offering a thick wine-drinking atmo-
sphere, pub food, and a few main courses (€12-20). It's small and can get painfully touristy
insummer(Mon-Sat17:00-24:00,closedSun,ablockpastMedievalCrimeandPunishment
Museum on Burggasse, with the devil hanging out front, tel. [phone]).
Mario's Altfränkische Weinstube am Klosterhof (listed earlier) is the liveliest place,
andaclearfavoritewithlocalsforanatmosphericdrinkorlatemeal.Wheneveryotherplace
is asleep, you're likely to find good food, drink, and energy here.
Restaurant Glocke, a Weinstube (wine bar) with a full menu, is run by Rothenburg's
oldest winemakers, the Thürauf family. The very extensive wine list is in German only be-
cause the friendly staff wants to explain your options in person. Their €4.80 deal, which lets
you sample five Franconian wines, is popular (€8-18 main courses, Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00,
Sun 11:00-14:00, Plönlein 1, tel. [phone]).
Meet the Locals
(See “Rothenburg Restaurants” map, here . )
For a rare chance to mix it up with locals who aren't selling anything, bring your favorite
slangandtonguetwisterstothe EnglishConversationClub atMario'sAltfränkischeWein-
stube am Klosterhof (Wed 19:00-24:00, restaurant listed earlier). This group of intrepid lin-
guists has met more than 1,000 times. Hermann the German and his sidekick Wolfgang are
regulars. Consider arriving early for dinner, or after 21:00, when the beer starts to sink in,
the crowd grows, and everyone seems to speak that second language a bit more easily.
Rothenburg Connections
Reaching Rothenburg ob der Tauber by Train: A tiny branch train line connects Rothen-
burg to the outside world via Steinach in 14 minutes (generally hourly from Rothenburg at
:06 and from Steinach at :35). Train connections in Steinach are usually quick and efficient
(trains to and from Rothenburg generally use track 5; use the conveyor belts to haul your
bags smartly up and down the stairs).
If you plan to arrive in Rothenburg in the evening, note that the last train from Steinach
to Rothenburg departs at about 22:30. All is not lost if you arrive in Steinach after the last
train—there'sasubsidized taxi service toRothenburg(cheaper forthegovernment thanrun-
ninganalmost-emptytrain).Tousethishandyservice,calledAST (Anrufsammeltaxi), make
an appointment with a participating taxi service (call 09861/2000 or 09861/7227) at least an