Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
often on the road from July through September, when material not related to Van Gogh is
displayed.
Réattu Museum (Musée Réattu)
Housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, this modern-art collection is al-
ways changing. The permanent collection usually includes a series of works by homegrown
Neoclassical artist Jacques Réattu, along with at least one Picasso painting and a roomful of
his drawings (donated by the artist, some two-sided and all done in a flurry of creativity).
The museum shuffles its large Picasso collection around regularly (they have more works
than space to display them). Most of the three-floor museum houses temporary exhibits of
modern artists—check the website to see who's playing.
CostandHours:
€7,freefirstSunofeachmonth,openJuly-SeptTue-Sun10:00-19:00,
Oct-JuneTue-Sun10:00-12:30&14:00-18:30,closedMonyear-round,lastentry30minutes
before closing for lunch or at end of day, 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, tel. 04 90 49 37 58,
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Markets
On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, Arles' ring road erupts into an open-air festival of
fish, flowers, produce, and you-name-it. The main event is on Saturday, with vendors jam-
ming the ring road from Boulevard Emile Combes to the east, along Boulevard des Lices
near the TI (the heart of the market), and continuing down Boulevard Georges Clemenceau
to the west. Wednesday's market runs only along Boulevard Emile Combes, between Place
Lamartine and bis Avenue Victor Hugo; the segment nearest Place Lamartine is all about
food, and the upper half features clothing, tablecloths, purses, and so on. On the first Wed-
nesday of the month, a flea market doubles the size of the usual Wednesday market along
Boulevard des Lices near the main TI. Join in: Buy some flowers for your hotelier, try the
olives, sample some wine, and swat a pickpocket. Both markets are open until 12:30.
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Bullgames
(Courses Camarguaises)
Provençal “bullgames” are held in Arles and in neighboring towns. Those in Arles occupy
thesameseatsthatfanshaveusedfornearly2,000years,andtakeinArles'mostmemorable
experience—the
courses camarguaises
in the ancient arena. The nonviolent bullgames are
more sporting than bloody bullfights (though traditional Spanish-style bullfights still take
place on occasion). The bulls of Arles (who, locals stress, “die of old age”) are promoted in
postersevenmoreboldlythantheirhumanfoes.Inthebullgame, aribbon
(cocarde)
islaced
between the bull's horns. The
razeteur,
with a special hook, has 15 minutes to snare the rib-
