ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1213

chio at Via dei Bardi 58, tel. [phone], run by Antonio, Marco, and Tomaso). They have
four seating areas (with the same menu and prices) for whatever mood you're in: a riverside
pizza place, a classier restaurant, a jazzy lounge, and a wine bar (they also serve a buffet of
appetizers free with your drink from 19:00 to 21:00). Mixing their fine wine, river views,
and live jazz makes for a wonderful evening (jazz nightly at 21:00 except Tue and Thu off-
season).
Dining Well in the Oltrarno
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here . )
Of the many good and colorful restaurants in the Oltrarno, these are my favorites. Reserva-
tions are a good idea in the evening.
IlSantoBevitoreRistorante, litlikeaRembrandtpaintingandfilledwithdressytables,
serves creative Tuscan cuisine. They're enthusiastic about matching quality produce from
the area with the right wine. This is a good break from the big, sloppy plates of pasta
you'll get at many Florence eateries (€9-12 pastas, €8-12 meat-and-cheese taglieri , €10-17
secondi, good wine list by the glass or bottle, daily 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun
for lunch, come early or make reservations, no outside seating, Via di Santo Spirito 64, tel.
055-211-264). Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels
like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who'd like a glass of wine and some light
food.Tight,cozy,andatmospheric, onewallisoccupied bythebar,whereyoucanassemble
an €8-12 tagliere of local cheeses and salumi (also available to take away). They also have
a few €6-8 hot dishes. Both the food and the wine is locally sourced from small producers
(daily 12:30-23:00, Via di Santo Spirito 60 red, tel. [phone]).
Gelato
Gelato is an edible art form. Italy's best ice cream is in Florence—one souvenir that
can't break and won't clutter your luggage. But beware of scams at touristy joints on
busy streets that turn a simple request for a cone into a €10 “tourist special” rip-off.
To avoid this, survey the size options and be very clear in your order (for example, “a
€3 cone”).
A key to gelato appreciation is sampling liberally and choosing flavors that go
well together. Ask, as Italians do, for “ Un assaggio , per favore ?” (A taste, please?;
oon ah-SAH-joh pehr fah-VOH-ray) and “ Che si sposano bene ?” (What marries
well?; kay see spoh-ZAH-noh BEN-ay).