ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1214

Artiginale , nostra produzione , and produzione propia mean gelato is made on the
premises; also, gelato displayed in covered metal tins (rather than white plastic) is
more likely to be homemade. Gelato aficionados avoid colors that don't appear in
nature—for fewer chemicals and real flavor, go for mellow hues (bright colors attract
children). If you see giant mounds of bright colors, skip it.
All of these places, which are a cut above, are open daily for long hours.
Near the Duomo: The recent favorite in town, Grom uses organic ingredients
and seasonal fresh fruit, along with biodegradable spoons and tubs. This clever Italy-
wide chain markets its traditional approach with a staff quick to tell customers, “This
gelato reminds me of my childhood.” A few purists grumble that a chain gelateria
can't possibly compare with a local one-off, but so far Grom has maintained an im-
pressively high quality—likely because the menu follows what's in season, changing
every month (Via delle Oche 24 red).
Near Ponte Vecchio: Gelateria Carrozze is a longtime favorite (on riverfront 30
yards from Ponte Vecchio toward the Uffizi at Piazza del Pesce 3).
Near the Accademia: A Sicilian choice on a tourist thoroughfare, Gelateria Car-
abè is particularly famous for its luscious granite—Italian ices made with fresh fruit.
A cremolata is a granita with a dollop of gelato—a delicious combination (from the
Accademia, it's a block toward the Duomo at Via Ricasoli 60 red).
Near Orsanmichele Church: Perchè No! is located just off the busy main pedes-
triandrag,Viade'Calzaiuoli,andservesawidearrayofflavors(ViadeiTavolini19).
Near the Church of Santa Croce: The venerable favorite, Vivoli's still has great
gelato—but it's more expensive and stingy in its servings. Before ordering, try a free
sample of their rice flavor— riso (closed Mon, Aug, and Jan; opposite the Church of
Santa Croce, go down Via Torta a block and turn right on Via Stinche). Locals flock
to Gelateria de' Neri (Via de' Neri 26 red), also owned by Vivoli's.
Near the Mercato Centrale: The Bermuda Triangle (a.k.a., I Gelati Del Bondi)
is a hit both for its fresh ingredients and for the big-hearted energy of its owner,
Vetulio (Via Nazionale 61 red, where it crosses Via Faenza, tel. [phone]).
Across the River: If you want an excuse to check out the little village-like neigh-
borhood across the river from Santa Croce, enjoy a gelato at the tiny Il Gelato di Filo
(named for Filippo and Lorenzo) at Via San Miniato 5 red, a few steps toward the
river from Porta San Miniato. Gelato chef Edmir is proud of his fruity sorbet as well.
Trattoria 4 Leoni creates the quintessential Oltrarno dinner scene. The Tuscan-style
food is made with an innovative twist and an appreciation for vegetables. You'll enjoy the